Srinagar: The Secrets of Heaven-on-Earth and Where To Find Them

Kashmir, in the northernmost part of India, is an ideal destination for travel during the summer months. As the snow melts in the lower regions, the distant mountain peaks continue to wear their snow-capped coats. On the one hand, you have a lush green landscape, blooming flowers, and gushing streams of Srinagar to mesmerize you; on the other is a little-known tradition tirelessly preserved by households from a small village on the outskirts of Srinagar who migrated to the old quarters of the city for better livelihood opportunities.

In this article, we present to you three reasons to visit Srinagar this summer season. Hope it inspires you!

Its Natural Beauty

Srinagar Blog Image 1 - Dal Lake view

Called the ‘Venice of the East’, Srinagar has long been associated with romance. And rightly so. Whether you are walking through its lanes, driving around the city, or enjoying a lovely Shikara ride on Dal Lake, you’ll likely see something intriguing from the corner of your eye. You’ll find a frame-worthy shot in every turn you take in the town fringing the banks of the stunning Dal Lake. We bet you will stop to have a second, more detailed look. That’s the charm of Srinagar.

The flower and fruit markets upon houseboats mirrored upon the rippled surface of the lake, the still-preserved fountains and the Mughal gardens of Srinagar, and the blooming orchards under the endless blue skies will fill your heart with awe – more beauty than your eyes can behold.  


Its Cultural Landmarks

Beyond the obvious appeal of the picturesque landscape, there lies Srinagar’s old city, which is like a living museum of Islamic architecture. Dating back to the Mughal era, the houses, shrines, and bridges showcase the Islamic, Persian, and Indian architectural styles blended. Under the intricately carved wooden balconies and lattice windows, the narrow lanes and alleyways remain filled with vibrant sights and sounds of everyday life with an impressive lineup of shops and stalls.

Papier-mâché from Srinagar old city

From dry fruits and spices to traditional handicrafts like papier-mâché, beautifully embroidered shawls, local delicacies and trinkets, and luxurious merchandise, here you’ll find everything quintessentially Kashmiri. The artisans and craftsmen at work will warmly invite you to watch and engage with them as they create magic with their hands.  


And a Lesser-Known Heritage

A treasure hidden and quite lost in time, Kani shawls are amongst the oldest Kashmiri handlooms, their origins believed to date back to 3000 BC. Counted among the world’s most luxurious kinds of Cashmere, the weave has been a symbol of opulence to affluent folks across history. Mughal emperors, Sikh Maharajas, and British Emporers were believed to own Kani shawls as their prized possessions. Today, Kani Shawls are housed as artifacts in the world’s finest museums, including the Metropolitan Museum of Art in New York.   

Kani Shawl before after

Unfortunately, what was once a flourishing craft with over ten thousand looms operational in Kanihama village during the Mughal era, is now being kept alive by only a few families who moved their base to the city in search of livelihood options. And therein lies an opportunity to see the exquisite craft in-making right at the heart of Srinagar’s old town. Several artisan households in this quarter of the city continue to preserve their heritage weave. Most of them have workshops as a part of their homes, where they also create weave pashminas and work on traditional embroidery along with Kani shawls.  


Srinagar Blog Image 1 - Dal Lake view

India, as a destination, is considered most suitable for travel in the cooler months. Most travel advisories list September to March as the best time to visit the country. But as the heat on the mainland increases, destinations up high in the mountains open their doors to welcome discerning travelers. And amidst the stunning landscape and weather, a wholesome cultural experience awaits you as you visit Srinagar this summer.  

Did Srinagar pique your interest? Connect with us to plan a holiday to heaven on Earth! 

WAY BEYOND THE BEATEN PATH

It has been a while since I returned from my second Kaafila experience. Both my trips were planned around the Kalinjar Fort. Now, you must be wondering where is Kalinjar and what is Kaafila?? Kalinjar Fort sits on the border between Uttar Pradesh (Northern India) and Madhya Pradesh (Central India) of present-day India. You may not have heard about it! If you are presuming Kalinjar to be one more on the long list of Forts and Palaces of India, you will be pleasantly intrigued!!!   

KALINJAR - FEB 2019 17
View from Kalinjar Fort

Kalinjar is no ordinary place. I say that because not many people visit Kalinjar. Then why did I go to Kalinjar??

Many years ago, my brother Nagesh, the explorer in our family, used to rave about this fort after his first visit. And I never understood why, until I made my first visit two years ago!

Last year, I received an invite from Kaafila Camps to experience Kalinjar Fort. I was excited and readily accepted. Having heard so much about it, I was really looking forward to it. Also because of the man behind Kaafila Camps.

Hashim explaining the intricacies of the sculptures in Kalinjar Fort

Hashim Tyabji is an alumnus of the TIGER TOPS school of camping. Tiger Tops is known for creating camping experiences in the most remote locations; starting with Chitwan in Nepal, in the late 70’s early 80’s. Carrying forward that spirit, Hashim dared to venture into some of the most unknown territories. He created wildlife lodges in Pench and Satpura at a time when no one had even heard of these places. Kaafila camp, his latest venture aims to take travellers to places that are untravelled, unexplored and lack access to quality accommodation. Hence the concept of Kaafila, which literally means a Caravan Camp that moves from one location to another.

KALINJAR - FEB 2019 24
Kalinjar Fort

Coming back to story of Kalinjar. The Fort derives its name from word ‘Kala’, that is synonymous with Shiva as the destroyer of time. Kalinjar indeed has a long association with time. It finds references in the Vedas, our ancient scriptures, as a place chosen by sages and saints for meditation, to attain their spiritual quests. In the earliest historical references – as a 11th Century Fort ruled by the Chandela Kings of Central India; Kalinjar witnessed frequent battles, but remained unconquered for most parts. It is perhaps the only Fort that has elements of mysticism, mythology, history, architecture, nature, wilderness and also wildlife. Set on a table top mountain, with stunning views of the landscape around, you can spend a full day exploring the various parts of this Fort; in the company of Hashim Tyabji, founder of Kaafila camps who will keep you enthralled with stories and historical anecdotes. And this is not all. For the birder in you, he is a great source of information, and will help you identify the avian species that you would spot along the way.

KALINJAR - FEB 2019 55
Inside Kalinjar Fort

So, how do we access Kalinjar??

The first point of access to Kalinjar Fort is the small town of Khajuraho – known for its intricately sculpted temples built, between 900 to 1100 AD, by Chandela Rajputs Kings – the same dynasty who ruled Kalinjar. Khajuraho is connected by flights from Delhi. A quick tour of the temples and a short drive brings you to Sarai at Toria, a beautiful eco-lodge located on the fringes of the Panna National Park.

KHAJURAHO - FEB 2019 1
Khajuraho Temples

Your hosts at Sarai at Toria, Raghu and Joanna, come from a background in wildlife conservation and research; having worked at Panna National Park, at a time when it was losing its Tiger population. From a point of extinction of Tigers in 2009 to today, when its population has grown to a sizeable number, Raghu and Joanna have been part of one of the greatest stories of revival of Tigers. Your stay at the Sarai at Toria will bring a deeper understanding of this story. If you would like some advance reading, pick up a copy of “The rise and Fall of the Emerald Tigers” by Raghu Chundawat.

Panna-Tiger
Swimming Tiger – Panna National Park

An overnight at the Sarai, an early morning Jeep Safari into the beautiful Panna National Park and a leisurely lunch cooked using organic ingredients – sets the mood to commence your Kaafila adventure. A drive, of approximately 2 hours, through the buffer forests of Panna, past the beautiful pastoral landscaped of central India, brings you to Kaafila’s Kalinjar camp, tucked deep inside a eucalyptus plantation, overlooking a small hill.

KAAFILA CAMP, KALINJAR - FEB 2019 31
Kaafila Camp – dining tent

With just four tents, which means not more than 8 guests at any given time, Kaafila is a very private and exclusive camping experience. Tents can also be setup for a minimum of 2 participants. The tents are modest in size, enough for two single beds or a queen size bed. Lighting in the tent is using battery operated LED bulbs that lasts through the night. Separate flash lights are also provided, in case the need arises to use them. The interiors are well done with tasteful décor and carpeted floors, with space enough to accommodate two small overnight suitcases.

The wash area and toilet are attached to the tent, separated by a zip up partition. A wash basin and a stand in shower are provided in the wash area. Wash basin has a storage unit with enough water and a dispensing tap. Hot water for shower is on request, at specific times of the day. The shower was my favourite part. Usually, I would avoid having showers when I stay in a camping tent. But in the two days I was there, I had a shower on both the days and I loved it. Toilets are thunder box style, with a unique system for collecting waste – odourless ,100% biodegradable and approved to international standards of camping by NASA.

KAAFILA CAMP, KALINJAR - FEB 2019 42
Kaafila Camp – outdoor breakfast

Meals are mostly at the camp, except lunch. Breakfast is laid out in the open depending on the season and weather permitting. Lunches are picnic style – simple food, carried from camp and served on site during your excursions. Evening starts with drinks around a campfire, followed by dinner inside a compact dining tent that can comfortably accommodate 8 to 10 participants. Conversations with Hashim are most interesting. Run by an efficient team that is well trained, friendly, many of them have been with Hashim for over a decade now.

KALINJAR - FEB 2019 60
Venue for picnic lunch

The Kaafila concept does not subscribe the idea of an ultraluxury experience, so do not expect a Glamour Camp here. Kaafila is an experience in itself, and I guarantee that you will appreciate every small detail that has been taken into account, and thoughtfully provided for in the Camp. 

A typical itinerary revolving around the Kalinjar Fort option would look as follows –

Day-1 Arrive Khajuraho. Lunch. Visit the Khajuraho temples. Drive to Panna. Check-Into Sarai at Toria. Dinner and Overnight.

Day-2 In Panna. Morning Jeep Safari into Panna National Park. Lunch. Afternoon drive Kaafila Camp. Check-In. Drinks around camp fire. Dinner and Overnight at Camp.

Day-3 Visit Ajaygarh Fort. Village Walk. Lunch on site. Drinks around camp fire. Dinner and Overnight at Camp.

Day-4 Full day exploration of Kalinjar Fort. Lunch on Site. Drinks around camp fire. Dinner and Overnight at Camp.

Day-5 Drive back to Sarai at Toria. Lunch. Afternoon at leisure. Boat ride on Ken river. Dinner and Overnight.

Day-6 Fly to next destination.

Sunset in Kalinjar Fort

Kaafila also provides exclusive camping experiences at 3 other locations in Central India.

Kuno Palpur:    Wildlife, Forts & Pavilions and evocative ruins.

Maikal Hills:      Home to the colourful Baiga tribal community.

Chanderi:         A town of awash with historic monuments, busy markets, timeless landscapes, and hand-woven textiles

These can also be combined with one another. For example, Kalinjar and Chanderi Camps can be combined with overnights at Sarai at Toria. Kalinjar and Maikal Hills Camps can also be combined with couple of nights at Bandhavgarh National Park.

KAAFILA CAMP
Kaafila Camp – interiors

The Kaafila Camps are seasonal and operate only for four months from the beginning of November till the end of February. Kaafila camps are niche, experiential and immersive, every step of the way is a learning experience here.

Travel Scope has always taken the lead in promoting off beat destinations since we started our operations in 1999. As the world moves towards the “offbeat”, we at Travel Scope are ready to move “Way beyond the beaten path” partnering with Kaafila Camps.

For more information, you can write to me personally on [email protected]

Image Credits: Mohan Narayanaswamy, Kaafila Camps

Purani Dilli ka Khana – A Culinary Adventure through Old Delhi

Chomping past Chandni Chowk has always been in my wishlist. So, when we were invited by India City Walks (ICW) to experience one of their food walks, I jumped at the opportunity. My colleague Mr. Somesh seemed equally excited (He has contributed the images in this blog). Shravan, from ICW, met us at Red fort parking, introduced us to Hitesh – our walk leader. Quite ironic for such a slender guy to lead a food walk. I have a good metabolism he said!

Paratha Wali Gali (Chandni Chowk) - Old Delhi 15
Conversation with a street vendor

He briefly took us through the history of different dynasties of Shahjanabad and it’s influences on what we know as Old Delhi’s Cuisine or “Purani Dilli ka Khana’” in present day. A timeline of the transition of vegetarian to non-vegetarian and vice versa. How the original minced meat filling recipe is today our loved samosa. The change in food culture as the dynasties of Delhi changed hands with time. From the days of the Hindu Rajput rulers who were primarily vegetarian – the Tomar and Chauhan dynasties that flourished during 9th across 12th centuries; onto the changeover to Islamic rulers and the introduction of non-vegetarian cuisine – the initial days of Ghori dynasty onto forming the Mamluk (slave) dynasty in the 13th century and finally to the Mughals from Central Asia who nearly ruled India for 300 years. 

As we progressed, Bela Banker our client from Swain Destinations, USA who joined us on the walk couldn’t stop herself from cleaning Hitesh’s glasses!! So that kind of broke the ice.

The Vegetarian Trail

We hopped onto an electric rikshaw from our rendezvous point near Red Fort parking, and headed towards Dariba Kalan for the Famous Samosa and Jalebi (a coil of refined flour batter fried and steeped in sugar syrup). Presented with two options for Samosas, we chose to taste both – the regular aaloo (potato) samosa and matar (green peas) samosa. We unanimously decided that the latter is a better pick! Jalebi was crisp, fluffy and hot.. not too sweet.. 

Next was walking past the bright and colourful Kinari Bazaar (also known as Wedding lane – hub for shopping for festivities and weddings) to arrive at the Paranthewali Gali. It’s was comfortable to get to sit for a while on this walking exploration. Choosing from 28 unique types of Parantha! (Indian flat bread with variety of stuffing) I wonder if someone ever ordered one with a bitter gourd filling! In an entirely personal opinion, I felt Paranthewali Gali may be a little of a hype. But from a westerners point of view it sure is exciting – just to be able to have a chomp in Chandni Chowk is quite an adventure in itself. 

Kinari Bazaar (Chandni Chowk) - Old Delhi 4
A store in Kinari Bazaar

For Dahi Bhalla (green bean paste added with spices, deep fried to make croquets, garnished with dahi (yogurt) and spices), we go to Chandni Chowk Road. The road in under reconstruction now. This store was on the other side – one could imagine how that makes crossing the road an adventure for many people. And the vendor apparently earns a hundred thousand rupees a per day.. 

As we venture towards our next stop, the lane gets narrower in Gali Bhojpura where we have Kachori (round piece of deep fried Indian bread stuffed with spiced lentils or onions), at an interesting little stop in a narrow corner.  Kachori with aaloo sabji (potato curry). Let me warn you, this is not for everyone – the potato curry was burning hot and spicy. But, what was heartening to see is the owner of this shop taking the initiative to educate the locals on cleanliness, safety, hygiene etc. using a PA system to make announcements. Anyways, with our mouths on fire after the Kachori and Potato Curry, we couldn’t let go of the idea of some lemonade to cool off our stomachs.  

Urdu Bazaar (Chandni Chowk) - Old Delhi 4
Kebabs straight from the skewers

The vegetarian trail ends with Giani’s Rabri Faluda (vermicelli noodles served with a traditional milk based sweet) in Chandni Chowk. It is a bit of a walk but it isn’t bad. With all the taste palates confused, wrapping it up with some assured sweetness is a good idea. So we walk to pamper ourselves at Giani’s oldest outlet.

Sneak peek – Non vegetarian trail

Our stomachs are already full after tasting these vegetarian delights, but we wanted to have a glimpse of the Non-Vegetarian trail. This is a long ride to reach Urdu Bazaar (near Jama Masjid). Our E-rickshaw now rides through the shoe market, crossing the lane of wedding cards and passing through the narrow alleys.  

Urdu Bazaar (Chandni Chowk) - Old Delhi 5
Scenes from the road – Riding through Urdu Bazaar

In Urdu Bazaar, I understood how difficult it is to avoid Qureshi’s, in this haven of non-vegetarian food. Et voila! We have chicken and mutton kababs drowned in butter! Moderately spiced – delicious! We end our adventure with Sahi Tukra – a very balanced sweet dish that is served warm. Perfect for a winter evening.

The walk

Kinari Bazaar (Chandni Chowk) - Old Delhi 15
Busy lane in Old Delhi

Old Delhi has such a charm to it, it is difficult to express in words. It is chaos but with an order to it. You only have to find it. The smaller lanes are fun to wander around, because the hawkers would not bother you. Quite so, no body actually bothers anybody! Everyone is there for a purpose, and they are focussed on that. 

While I have to go back to check the non-vegetarian trail, I think, doing it as a standalone would be all about food! A combination of both should be aimed for. Alternatively, a walk in these smaller lanes with food as an optional element would be nice. There is so much to experience and learn in these lanes – travellers should be keep their eyes and ears open, to ensure they don’t miss out on anything. 

The walk leader

Hitesh has done a fair job here. He is articulate and tries to connect. His history is strong and has tried his best to connect stories of how the outlets we visited. Most shops in Old Delhi are run by the same family for generations. He had attempted well to introduce different elements of food to us and keep us engaged during the walk, despite the usual hue and cry of Old Delhi. I can imagine, it is a challenge to navigate through the crowd, coordinating with the team of vendors, making small talk with the participants, arranging hop on hop off transportation and still keep it relevant and interesting – all at the same time.

Take away

In my earlier visits to Old Delhi, I had only scratched the surface – walking through the main roads and only venturing into the wider lanes. This walk was a good introduction to the spirit of Old Delhi and has given the four of us the confidence to revisit the place. In the coming times, the lanes would become more familiar, and time would not be a restraining factor to explore more. I am looking forward to the next opportunity I get, to take another walk, learn more about other little known fun facts of Old Delhi.

KHADI – A FABRIC OF INDIA’S FREEDOM MOVEMENT

“If we have the ‘khadi spirit’ in us, we would surround ourselves with simplicity in every walk of life”. – Mahatma Gandhi.

SPINNING WHEELS

I discovered this simplicity when I visited Magan Sangrahalaya, Maganwadi in Wardha. Gandhiji lived in Maganwadi, Wardha for two years, after his departure from Sabarmati Ashram in Gujarat. Magan Sangrahalaya is the only museum started by Gandhiji. Today the museum houses several interesting sections including an exhibition on the rare belongings of Mahatma Gandhi. The museum also hosts a gallery on various types of Charkhas (spinning wheels) for making yarn out of cotton and verities of hand spun and handwoven fabric. It also exhibits various village industries and appropriate technologies for people.

SPINING

The most interesting part of this visit was to walk through the Khadi unit, a centre for fine hand woven and hand printed Khadi fabrics made purely out of organic material. Every single process of making the fabric involves working with hands. The use of machines is next to none.

When I stepped into the centre, I thought we would walk through it in just about an hour. But once I met Mukesh Lutade, the Director at the centre, my master class on handmade fabrics started. Mukesh did not spare a single detail while showing me around the centre. He explained every single process in the making of the fabrics, from how they source organic cotton from farmers to spinning the yarn using solar-powered Charkhas (spinning wheels), to using 100% organic colours extracted out of natural resources sources, to dyeing techniques, to washing the fabric in rectangular tanks to give the fabric the effect of running water of the rivers.

WEAVING

One of the highlights is the printing process using hand-carved wooden blocks with intricate designs. Multiple blocks are used to create a layer of print on top of the other to arrive at the final design. To see the artisans doing it swiftly and flawlessly is a fascinating experience. Guests are welcome to try their hand at block printing. Printing fabrics using natural leaves is another simple yet fascinating technique to create beautiful designs.

NATURAL COLOURS

But what inspired me most is the brush-stripe process. I didn’t understand this term till I actually saw the stripes created on fabric using a paint brush with organic colours. As simple as it may sound, but the process of creating stripes on fabric using a paint brush is not that simple. It requires a certain technique and flow of the hand to run the brush at a stretch on the fabric to create the stripes with consistency. The artisans here do it with ease and create 10 to 15 meters of fabric every day using this technique.

Screen Shot 2019-01-18 at 2.09.27 PM (1)

I eventually spent about 5 hours walking through every section of the centre guided by Mukesh Ji. It was inspiring to see his passion and his involvement with every single process of making those beautiful printed fabrics.

Finally, I met Dr Vibha Gupta, chairperson of Magan Sangrahalaya Samiti. Dr Gupta is a PhD from IIT Delhi on “Transfer of Technology Amongst Rural Women”. She has dedicated her life to the emancipation of rural people particularly women of Rural India by setting up micro-enterprise projects.

HAND PRINTED LEAF

The Khadi unit is one such project that helps farmers, women and artisans who work to create some of the most beautiful designs on fabrics. Dr Gupta’s powerful words still resonate with me, when she said that by taking away hands from our work, we are also taking the peace away from people. But at Magan Khadi, everyone works using their hands and you can see the peace and happiness on their faces. We too left happy and content after this visit but not before a sumptuous home-cooked meal hosted by Dr Vibha Gupta at her residence.

HAND PRINTED

When I planned my trip to Tadoba Andhari Tiger Reserve, I made it a point to make a short detour to Wardha to visit the Magan Sangrahalaya. This place was strongly recommended to me by a long-term business associate and friend Bela Banker from the United States. Bela had visited the centre last year and was equally impressed with it. I cannot thank her enough for suggesting this place to me.

This link to a short video on Magan Sangrahalaya Samiti will give an insight into this experience.

Travel Scope highly recommends a visit to Magan Sangrahalaya Samiti for our travellers planning a trip to Tadoba. Please write to us for further details on how to include it on your itineraries.

The Leopards & Shepherds of Bera

This story is long overdue but the scenes are still fresh in my mind. All I need is to press the memory button and it all unfolds in front of me. I had been hearing about leopards of Bera for a long time. But until you reach there you have no idea of the experience. I have known Shatrunjay Pratap for many years now.

He is a connoisseur of Indian wine. Having completed a special degree in wine culture form UC Davis in California, he returned to India and worked in Sula vineyards in Nashik. But I suppose his heart was beating to be out there in the wild. He decided to move to Bera in Western Rajasthan, where he has been camping for several years now.

In these years, he has scanned every conceivable hill in the area and has got some of the most amazing photographs and footage of the leopards and shepherds of the area.  He has been a crusader for these leopards and the shepherds for all these years, fighting legal battles against illegal mining contracts to save and sustain the habitat for these beautiful beasts.

Leopards Bera
One of Bera’s majestic residents staking its territory. Image credits: Shatrunjay Pratap, Bera Safari Lodge.

His lodge BERA SAFARI Lodge is an ideal location to stay and explore the hills of BERA to look for leopards and other wildlife in the bush such as jackals, hyenas, bears and a variety of birds. You could also chance upon some of the most venomous snakes such as the saw-scaled viper.

07_Bera Safari Lodge Room 01
The spacious well-appointed rooms at Bera with a view over scrub-and-thorn wilderness. Image credits: Bera Safari Lodge.

The Bera Safari Lodge is a small and simple 4 room property with all comforts that one would need on a wildlife exploration. The dining room is an intimate space where one gathers for every meal like a family. Fresh home cooked meals are served by the staff, under the supervision of Katyayani, Shatrunjay’s better half.
 
The highlight of the stay is setting out on safaris with Shatrunjay, as he navigates us through the bush in Bera. His team of spotters are connected by walkie-talkies and the moment a leopard is spotted, it is communicated to Shatrunjay. Sightings are very different compared to sightings on Tiger Safaris. The leopards are located on the hills hence using binoculars are the best way of spotting them. One needs to be a skilled spotter to locate them in the well-camouflaged habitat.

DSCN1247
An Indian Eagle Owl caught in our headlights

I am narrating a highlight of my own visit to Bera. We were a party of 6. So we split ourselves into two jeeps and different directions. I was with Shatrunjay and my photographer friend Sid. We had to do a bit of a trek carrying all our heavy equipment to reach a particular spot to set ourselves up. It was dark when we left the lodge. Our first sighting was an Indian Eagle Owl standing right in the middle of the road. As the sun started coming up slowly the surroundings became clear and I could see a dry river bed in front of me and a hill across.
 
Shatrunjay told me that this hill is home to a leopard and he usually comes back in the morning after his night outs. I was wondering if the leopard was really going to come. I then popped the obvious question to Shatrunjay. And as soon as I said that Shatrunjay’s spotter pointed us towards the hill. Woh Niklio Hukam. That means, there he comes to Sir.

I tried spotting the leopard using my small 60 x Nikon and got some shots. But the amazing scene that happened was captured by both Shatrunjay and Sid’s powerful lenses. An eagle owl flew up past the leopard and gave it a shot on the head before flying away. That scene was worth the wait.  The leopard, obviously irritated and unhappy at this daring act of the owl, slowly walked towards his cave, but not before stopping to give us a good stare, as though saying, I still rule this place.  

Bera-2
Bera’s story revolves around the leopard and the Rabari tribesmen – click on the image to watch our YouTube video

He was a grown-up male with a sagging belly. Obviously, he had a great feast on his night out and looking forward to a good siesta back in his cave.
We spent the rest of the day at the lodge and went out at sunset to another amazing landscape. These hills were homes to leopards and bears, though we didn’t have any sighting. But the spot itself was magical and the sunset was incredibly beautiful.

DSCN1305
The Rabari shepherd community has long lived alongside the leopards – and their stoic philosophy has helped them cope with livestock losses due to predation every year

The next morning we visited some of the Rebari settlements. A visit to a villages in Bera is an interesting insight into the lives of the Rebaris. The Rebaris a  shepherd community, make a living from their livestock which includes cows, goats, sheep. There is an unwritten understanding between the leopards and the shepherds. The days belongs to the shepherds and the nights belong to the leopards.
 
Despite the dangers of attack by leopards on their livestock, the shepherds here in Bera have lived in harmony for years and avoided conflict. Shatrunjay’s work in conserving the habitat and educating the shepherds has further helped in sustaining the lives of both.
 
Bera is slowly becoming popular on the tourism circuit. It’s a great experience for nature lovers. One must visit before it gets overcrowded like other wildlife destinations.

Ladakh: On the Snow Leopard Trail

Ladakh: On the Snow Leopard Trail

Text and Images: Devayani Khare (except where stated otherwise)
I flew into Leh, the capital of Ladakh in the last week of November when winter’s chill had set in.  The Indus river snaked its way across the sleepy town, and the Zanskar range created a jagged horizon against picture perfect skies.
After a couple of days’ acclimatization to Leh’s altitude of 13,500 ft above mean sea level, we set off northwestwards for Ulley – our destination to track the elusive snow leopard.
On our three hour drive through the Leh valley towards the ridges, we came across many small towns, military encampments, hilltop monasteries – like the Stakna (just visible to the right where the river disappears into the distance)…
…and beautiful snow-melt stream beds – sometimes frozen, sometimes a trickle, growing wild with heather and shrubs. We stopped off several times along the way for some birdwatching and to admire the spectacular panoramas.
By mid-afternoon, we reached Ulley – a village with a handful of wood-and-stone cottages, overlooking a valley carved by a glacier, fringed by the ice-capped Zanskar range.

Image credits: Kaafila Camps

Over a hot cup of tea in the colourful lounge, we were introduced to the concept of the Snow Leopard Lodge – run by the Kaafila Camps group and marketed by RARE destinations & experiences. Thanks to these partners, we were here on this snow leopard tracking adventure!

Image credits: Kaafila Camps

Over the next few days, we scoured the low ranges and high, the neighbouring valleys and villages – for a glimpse of the snow leopard. We stalked groups of its prey, like the bharal or blue sheep…
Watched groups of female urial – a species of wild sheep grazing placidly before heading to higher ridges to be serenaded…
…by the impressive males in mating regalia – black ruff and big horns! The ritual involves a series of head-butting matches on scree slopes between males to decide on who gets to mate with all the females.
We also saw other wildlife like the timid Ladak pika…
The Chukar partridge – an upland gamebird from the pheasant family…
Flocks of choughs…alpine and red-billed, that looked like shadows in the valley…
The lammergeier or the bearded vulture soaring high above the ridges to scavenge on the marrow from animal bones…
And the majestic golden eagle…
On the last day of our stay, we found fresh snow leopard pugmarks – our expert trackers told us that it was a female with two cubs that would have passed by in the early morning hours. As snow leopards are mostly active during dawn and twilight hours, the family would have sought refuge in the crags and we scanned the valley in vain…Yet the ‘ghost of the Himalayas’ eluded us. However, we were far from disappointed.With a geology sculpted by the birth of the Himalayas, rivers fed by glaciers,the subtle shades of winter vegetation like willow and heather, the incredible biodiversity, and the warmth and hospitality of its humble folk, Ladakh’s stark beauty was so much more than we could have expected.

After a couple of days’ acclimatization to Leh’s altitude of 13,500 ft above mean sea level, we set off northwestwards for Ulley – our destination to track the elusive snow leopard.
On our three hour drive through the Leh valley towards the ridges, we came across many small towns, military encampments, hilltop monasteries – like the Stakna (just visible to the right where the river disappears into the distance)…

Of Reigns, Religions & Ruins: Badami, Aihole, Pattadakal

We drove through Hubli in Karnataka, a dusty, decrepit town with faded shop signs and half-forgotten civic works – the ruins of the industrial age. Hubli’s bleak residential complexes gave way to some spectacular geology and we found ourselves in a ravine fringed by red sandstone crags. We had reached our destination, Badami, known for its ruins of the Chalukya dynasty that ruled parts of south India from the 6th – 12th CE. Badami with the nearby towns of Aihole and Pattadakal are designated as a UNESCO World Heritage Site, showcasing a blend of architecture from the north and south of India.

The history and the allure of over 150 temples strewn across a stark landscape, had drawn my mother here over ten years ago when she was working on her doctorate in Indian Art and Architecture. The caves and temples of Badami-Aihole-Pattadakal weren’t just witnessed to a dynasty, she told me, as the different faiths of Shaivism, Vaishnavite, Buddhism and Jainism swept across the landscape, each carved their own gods and symbols. Today, I was travelling with her to unravel the archaic symbology and to learn about the syncretization of faiths in south India.

Making our way through a busy, narrow road through the town’s market, we reached a brick-coloured rocky outcrop. The Badami cave temples are carved into this crumbling rock face and represent a series of architectural styles. The first cave bears friezes from Shiva’s life; his Tandava-dancing Nataraja form, his half-male, half-female form, Ardhanarishvara, a family portrait with his wife Parvati, and his sons Ganesha and Kartikeya, among other iconic deities like Durga and Vishnu. Beyond the gods represented, there other characters and symbols – animals, birds, lotuses and amorous couples adorn the walls, dwarfish ganas or cherubs are carved into the floor, indicating a world of gods, demi-gods and other creatures.

BadamiCaves_Trivikrama
Vishnu in his ‘Trivikrama’ avatar teaching humility to King Mahabali (positioned below the uplifted leg)

The second and third caves carved in the late 6th or early 7th CE depict stories about Vishnu in different avatars. The boar-headed Varaha avatar brings to mind the story of the birth of south India’s mighty river, Tungabhadra. His Trivikrama reincarnates appeared before the haughty, wealthy king, Mahabali to teach him humility. A Vishnu reclining on a snake’s back indicates his role in primal creation and sustenance of the universe. Other stories like the churning of the ocean for the famed ambrosia and the fallout between the gods and demons are carved along pillars. The marriage of Shiva and Parvati is painted on the ceiling, one of India’s oldest examples of fresco art. While the statues are damaged by natural factors or by subsequent rulers, and the frescoes have faded and chipped, the rich mythology has lived on. The legends that inspired kings to carve these temples, were passed on through stories told by my mother and grandmother, so that I could stand here centuries later, and vividly reimagine the lives and loves of the gods.

BadamiCaves_MarriageofShiva
The marriage of Shiva and Parvati

The fourth cave is starkly different in its iconography, as it represents Jain Tirthankaras or prophets. Scholars say it was carved in the 8th CE, my mom explained as she pointed out the motif-rich columns and window-like panels peopled with standing figures. Bahubali, Parshvanatha and Mahavira are detailed carvings, whereas other Tirthankaras are symbolically displayed. Interestingly, this cave bears an icon associated with Hinduism, the Makara – a composite, mythical sea creature with the body of a fish, a trunk of an elephant, feet of a lion, eyes of a monkey, ears of a pig, and the tail of a peacock. I remembered this creature from the black-and-white photos in my mother’s dissertation, and it was more beautiful to see it etched in stone, almost like the pages coming to life. Like the curious sculpture of half-Vishnu and half-Shiva in cave 2, such symbols show the classic syncretization of faiths – where subsequent religions merge or borrow iconography to gain acceptance.

Badami_MakaraToran
A ‘toran’ or carved archway, depicting the ‘Makara’ – a composite, mythical sea creature with the body of a fish, trunk of an elephant, feet of a lion, eyes of a monkey, ears of a pig, and the tail of a peacock.

On the other side of the Badami caves, across the greenish Agasthya lake, lay another crag with two temples and a ruined fort wall, now ruled by monkeys. After a quick visit of the rather dull Badami museum that lay at the base, we climbed up to the lower and upper shivalayas – less-elaborately carved temples that overlooked the town. The lower shivalaya retains only its inner sanctum, and upper shivalaya bears some stories from Ramayana, Krishna’s life and Narasimha, Vishnu’s lion-headed avatar. As the sunset painted the skies in hues to rival the burnished rocks, we climbed down amidst the clamour of monkeys staking out their night-time territory.

Badami_Shivalayas01
The Upper Shivalaya perched on the crags above the Agasthya Tirtha

In the fading light, we walked around the Agasthya lake to reach the temples at the far side – the Bhoothnath complex. The temples also bore a mix of Hindu and Jain icons with the elaborate inner structures juxtaposed against the more geometric outer structures, indicating that they had been completed over a period of time. Historical records concur, the temples date from the 7th – 11th CE.

Pattadakal_TempleComplex2
The Pattadakal complex of temples

The following day, we drove to the Pattadakal group of temples, located along the Malaprabha river. The present-day entrance leads you to the newer temples first but to retrace the history, one should start at the Virupaksha temple dating back to 740 CE. An elaborate structure depicting the Shiva – Vishnu folklore, it is said to have inspired the famous Kailash temple in Ellora, near Aurangabad, Maharashtra. The other structures around, the Mallikarjun temple, Sangameshwara temple, Kashi Vishwanath temple, Chandrasekhar temple, Galganath temple, among others were constructed between the 7th – 9th CE. Unusual icons like ducks, numerous Kannada inscriptions that can help trace the evolution of ancient scripts, and the monolithic stone pillar are of particular interest to the historian. Mom and I lamented the state of the Pattadakal museum and the number of sculptures it displayed that couldn’t be restored to their former glory.

Aihole_DurgaTemple
Aihole’s best-preserved monument, the Durga Temple

A short drive from Pattadakal led us to Aihole. Unlike the compound built around Pattadakal’s many temples, Aihole’s temples are scattered around a little village and one must walk around from temple to tank, from hillside to cave to explore them. Legend has it that Sage Parashurama killed a band of soldiers who were abusing their power, and upon washing his axe in the river Malaprabha near Aihole,  the region’s rocks turned red. Aihole’s legacy from prehistoric cave paintings to 12th CE temples has earned it the epithet, ‘cradle of Hindu rock architecture’. Hindu temples, one Buddhist structure and a few Jain monuments in varying stages of ruin, and varied influences indicate that Aihole was a place for creative experimentation. The styles practised here went on to define north and south architecture, for Hindu and Jain faiths. An inscription mentions a civil war against the Pallavas, a dynasty history chronicles as following the Chalukya. It seems ironic that like their architectural legacy, the decline of the Chalukya dynasty is also etched in stone.

Cruising the Sunderbans – a travelogue by Mohan

Pied Kingfisher
Pied Kingfisher

Common ki Pied – dakho ?!! 

A travelogue on the Sunderbans by Mohan

Common ki Pied – dakho ?!!  asked our boatman Manoj to our Naturalist Samar when he spotted a Kingfisher as we cruised the waterways of Sunderbans. Queried with authority, it surprised me that the boatman should know the bird and the species. What blew my mind was the ability of both Manoj and Samar to spot the smallest of birds from the distance of our boat.

Sunderbans is home to 6 species of Kingfishers or Machranga (as called in Bengali). And I call them the “Super Six of Sunderbans”. We were lucky to spot all 6 but could photograph only 5 including the brown-winged Kingfisher, which is endemic to the Sunderbans.

Our first glimpse of wildlife on the cruise was the Black-Capped Kingfisher. A beautiful bird with a black head, white neck, orange beak, and a beautiful Royal blue body. It looked stunning sitting on the stump of a tree in the background of the brown muddy banks of Sunderbans. It reminded me in some ways of the colours one sees in the barren desert landscape of Rajasthan.

Black Capped Kingfisher
Black Capped Kingfisher

We all know Sunderbans as the World’s largest mangrove forest, certified by Unesco as a Natural Heritage site. It’s one of the most unique landscapes of this world. This is also a habitat for the Royal Bengal Tigers that roam around these forests and swim across its channels, formed by over 400 rivers that criss-cross to form the world’s largest Delta.

As we continued our cruise, we spot two Rhesus macaques walking along the mud slush. This sight is so different when compared with spotting them in the thick and green foliage of a jungle. While we are admiring the strides made by the Macaques through the slush, suddenly our naturalist Samar points us towards a Monitor lizard. It’s hard to spot it at first and takes a while before we trace its form and location. Our cameras immediately swing into action. As we cruise we go past a watchtower, wondering we haven’t seen any DEER, when suddenly our navigator Manoj calls out, DEER! We come across this small herd of three spotted Deers, grazing along the shores.

Spotted Deers
Spotted Deer

While cruising back to our lodge, we spot an Osprey sitting on the branch of a tree with the setting sun in the background. We then come across our Kingfisher No.2, the Pied Kingfisher. A totally different colour combination of just black and white stripes and spots.

Moonrise
Moonrise

Our first day in the Sunderbans ended witnessing the setting sun and rising full moon. The first full moon after the 10th day of Durga Puja in Bengal is celebrated as LAKKHI PUJA or Lakshmi Puja, an auspicious day on which the people of Bengal pray to Lakshmi, the goddess of wealth and prosperity. And what we witnessed was a stunning sunset on one side and a rising full moon reflecting bright light on the villages along the riverbanks. It was a spectacular way to end a long day of travel. Back at the camp, we watched the documentary “Swamp Tigers” the first-ever documentary made on the Tigers of Sunderbans shot entirely in Bangladesh side of the swamp forests. A must watch for anyone who is planning a visit to this place.

As with most Indian forests, Sunderbans is also connected with many myths.  One such story is of the mythical jungle goddess Bonobibi who continues to be worshipped by both the Hindu and Muslim communities in the Sunderbans. Bonobibi is considered by the locals as their protector and saviour from attacks by predators like the Tiger.  The lives and livelihoods of people of Sunderbans are dependent on resources from the forests such as honey, crab and fish. As they set out every day into the forests to tap these resources, they pray to Goddess Bonobibi to protect them, for the narrow creeks and the forests of Sunderbans can be extremely dangerous with the presence of the hungry tigers.  Amitav Ghosh’s “HUNGRY TIDE” gives a magical perspective of this region and a must read.

The next couple of days were dedicated to cruising on the rivers and narrow creeks of Sunderbans forests. Our explorations lasted almost 12 hours each day with a 5 AM start ending back at the lodge at 5 PM. Daytime meals were on board. Breakfast consisted of sandwiches, poha (an Indian dish made out of flattened rice), cucumber and tomato sandwiches, bread, jam, butter, cereals, omelette and fruits while lunch consisted of local specialities such as vegetables, lentils, rice, chapatti, salad and a sweet. The crew was kind and efficient and kept a constant supply of tea and biscuits on request.

The early start and long days on a cruise were rewarding as we saw a variety of wildlife. As we would get into a quiet phase on the cruise, some extraordinary sighting would wake us up. Like a swimming estuarine crocodile or a bird of prey or the pug marks of a Tiger that just swam across a creek and disappeared into the jungle.

The best time to see wildlife here is at low tide when the water levels start receding and one starts observing animal movement along the shore. There are some places which are good for birding during high-tide as birds perch themselves higher up on trees.

As our explorations continued, our Naturalist Samar despite poor mobile connectivity got a call on his cell phone from another naturalist. Two Tigers had been spotted on the edge of a creek, ready to swim across. But looking at a boat passing by, they decided to stay away and walked back into the Jungle. Unlike other forests where alarm calls from animals such as Deer, langurs and macaques signal the presence of a predator, in Sunderbans, it’s very hard to figure out a Tiger’s presence as the prey base is low. There are practically no alarm calls unless a deer or a monkey is present in the same spot as a Tiger, which is not so common. Therefore reports like this are very critical for naturalists. If they get an indication of a sighting, they tend to spend more time in these areas to wait and WATCH. After waiting for some time, we decided to move on much to the disappointment of our Naturalist Samar.

Midway through our cruise at the Netidhopani watchtower, we met up with another guest from our lodge who was lucky to have spotted these two tigers. Sunderbans is the 3rd most difficult place to spot a Tiger after Siberia and Sumatra. Back at the lodge, the information board read “Last Tiger Spotted by a guest 6.10.2017”.

We kept moving and were rewarded with sighting 3 more species of Kingfisher. The last one was the Brown Winged Kingfisher which is endemic to Sunderbans. That also brought the end of a long but satisfying day of cruising and wildlife sightings.

Brown Winged Kingfisher
Brown Winged Kingfisher

The second day of our visit in Sunderbans was affected by heavy rains for most parts of the day. But that did not deter us from going out on the cruise. We ventured out fully equipped with food and water. Our time was well spent with interesting discussions and storytelling sessions by our friend and special guest Jaideep Gupta, who has been a travel companion of many years.

Originally from Bengal and settled in Delhi, Jaideep is an avid traveller who is well read and well informed. He kept pouring out stories of local folklore and legend. His references to the comic characters of Tuttu-Buttu and their adventures into the jungles and encounter with Machranga the Kingfisher made it a very interesting experience. Folklore and legend always add an interesting dimension to any place. One such tale connected to Sunderbans forests that Jaideep recounted is the Story of Behula who brought back her husband Lakhinder from the jaws of death after praying to the snake Goddess Manasa.

As we entered another phase of quietude on the cruise, we heard the naturalist call out Dakho, ‘Dolphins’. It was the perfect place and moment to see the Irrawaddy Dolphins. Our crew kept calling out to us, as the dolphins popped in and out of the water. This game went on for good half hour to 45 minutes with our heads turning left and right, as we attempted to capture those wonderful scenes on our Cameras.

We saw a few more birds of prey, a pair of Brahmini kites, more deer. A monitor lizard which didn’t feel like being photographed moved swiftly back into the forest as we tried to get closer for a shot. The last sighting of the day was another swimming estuarine crocodile, which gave me ample opportunity to capture an amazing video.

Despite rains playing spoilsport, we had another great day exploring the waterways. A fascinating part of the experience is interaction with the locals. Talking to them, helped us understand their challenging lives in these harsh conditions. We spoke to a family, who had just finished collecting crabs on a narrow creek.  The one thing they all fear is “the Tiger”, yet they venture into these treacherous terrains and risk their lives.

Our day ended at the lodge watching a play on the legend of Bonobibi enacted by the hotel staff and artists from the neighbouring village.

As we prepared to leave the next morning, a Baul singer brought calm against the sounds of the lashing rain with his soulful singing.

Sunderbans is a once-in-a-lifetime experience for all nature lovers. The highlight of a visit to Sunderbans is its habitat, the wildlife sightings. Interaction with locals, learning about their lives and livelihoods, about the conflicts between man and animal, folklore and legend, social issues and community development brings insight and answers a lot of intriguing questions for the inquisitive traveller.

Accommodation options in Sunderbans are limited to three-star levels. Food served is mostly Indian. Staff, at the hotel, is mostly local from the villages around the property. Communication skills and service levels do not conform to destinations that experience a large inflow of travellers. I strongly recommend that every trip is led by an English speaking escort from Kolkata or Delhi to carefully monitor every detail and manage the expectations of a guest.

In conclusion, I would add that Sunderbans does tick off everything that we are committed to offering under W.A.T.C.H.

Mohan

 

 

Predator Diaries: Pench National Park

On my first safari, and the month had just turned December. A chilly and cold morning and within less than five minutes a jungle cat was sighted. It disappeared into the tall grass and then further into the woods. Later on the in the day, a jackal trotted along without a care in the world. Amongst all this, of course, I must mention the multiple numbers of white eye buzzard who had made the woodland their stronghold. When I look back now, I must say that the impatient part of me hoped for the tiger lurking around the corner waiting to show itself and make my first-morning special. But it was not to be. Yet, now that I sit and write this I must say that it was hard to ignore the different predators large and small that Pench comprises of including the striped cat above all this in the food chain.

White Eyed Buzzard
White Eyed Buzzard

What allows Pench to have a successful number of predators in terms of both numbers and diversity is its high density of prey species including the axis deer. Pench ranks right up there with one of the highest numbers of spotted deer in comparison to other national Parks, tiger reserves or wildlife sanctuaries. To add to this are langur monkeys which are also found in abundance along with a few rhesus macaques who too seem very much at home in this dry deciduous forest. Larger prey species include nilgai or blue bull antelope, sambar deer and the Indian Gaur, a large and impressive wild cattle. Add to this a healthy number of diversity of avian fauna, good fish life on the Pench river running through the heart of the park and a great diversity of insect life that thrive in this teak dominated country. All these facets together make Pench a thriving forest of Eden and a perfectly suited habitat of a buffet on offer for the hunters as I found out in my four seasons of winter and summer spent here.

As a naturalist, patience was key and I learnt very soon that seeking tigers here was going to be a challenge. Yet my eyes kept out for the other details that went around and never did the jungle allow me to let my guard down. Looks can be deceptive and I found that out while on a morning game drive when a rather cute looking jungle owlet was seen with a small sized serpent in its talons. It was not the last time I saw it with dinner. Many other incidents proved that if you were prey, death could come from the sky as much as from the earth. On a different occasion, a different victim, this time a palm squirrel. It had met its death at the talons of a hawk eagle.

Hawk Eagle with a kill
Changeable Hawk Eagle with a kill

Another incident happened by the Pench river where I was busy watching ruddy shelducks and river terns when unexpectedly, there was a sudden flash of activity in the waters. Before I knew what had unfolded, a grey-headed fish eagle was off with a struggling fish in the grip of its talons. Clearly, the poor fish did not see it coming, and neither did I to start with. Buzzard presence could not be missed either and honey buzzards and white eyes dominated in their respective niche of open country and well-wooded habitats. While the honey buzzard fed well on the abundance of larvae supplied by bees and at times wasps too, on one occasion I noticed a fascinating incident of a white eye buzzard feeding on a grasshopper. Clearly, Pench is one of the best places to see birds of prey and I was fortunate to witness all this first hand.

Many memorable incidents include a special evening while driving back from the park to camp. Dusk had fallen and the lights had faded giving way to nocturnal life to move about. As I winded the jeep through the buffer forests with a group of journalists on board, we caught sight of a huge rock python passing through the road as it slipped away into the darkness of the forest. Its sheer size and constricting muscles seemed intimidating enough when I got down to have a closer look. Hilly and rocky terrain with good leaf cover and plenty of rock shelters give the rock python a perfect chance at becoming a successful predator in this thriving jungle book of Kipling. This particular ‘kaa’ that I saw, deserved every inch of respect. Another reptile which hunts actively and scavenges readily at any given opportunity is the monitor lizard. A miniature form of the Komodo, it is easy to forget about their existence in the jungle till summer arrives when they make themselves more visible. Monitor lizards are active egg snatchers by nature but in addition to this, also very skilled hunters of small game.

BengalMonitor
Bengal monitor lizard basking on a rock

Amongst all this, it was inevitable that predators would cross paths with one another and it is here where rivalry and competition of predators are seen in real. One such example happened earlier this year when a jungle cat had to make a run for it when it encountered a golden jackal who chased it deep into the woods before I lost sight of both.

The larger predators showed up on few occasions but when they did, sightings were special and all worth the wait. One such incident I can recall happened to be on a hot day in late March. The morning had yielded a male tiger sighting, but my photography guests from Scandinavia rode their luck into the evening when we encountered a tigress cooling off at a waterhole. What followed after this was far from what we had prepared ourselves for. A small pack of five wild dogs trotted towards the same waters where the tigress lay. In a matter of minutes, the calm and still ambience of the jungle changed when the tigress got off her comfortable spot trying to pursue into chasing down a couple of the dogs while the rest flee. The dogs, of course, were too agile for her, but the whole air filled with cackling alarms of the dogs and the growls of the tigress. The jungle was at its most tense and looking back at that evening now still gives me goosebumps while my guests watched in awe. Something unique, something special had unfolded that evening and we were the witness.

Wild Dog pair
A pair of wild dogs or dholes

Another such incident happened when we encountered a pack of eight wild dogs near a waterhole. The langurs continuously barked their alarm. It got me wondering since langurs unless got off guard are usually calm up on the tress even if dogs are seen in the vicinity. On a closer look at the higher branches and we noticed the reason for the monkey tension. Two leopards on two separate branches had been treed up by the pack of wild dogs, and they seemed to be holding on for dear life. As we sat and watched this go on, wondering about the escape routes for the leopards, out came a jackal trotting on to the scene that saw the dogs chase it with serious intent, the whole scene of the chase disappearing into the thick lantana. Such was the blessing for the cats, as both the leopards carefully climbed down before making a dash for cover.

Jackal with a kill
The elusive golden jackal with a spotted deer kill

Encounters of predators crossing our paths and that of one another happened more often than I thought as I spent more time in these jungles. While I witnessed the challenges of each predator unfold before me, their very presence both big and small is what makes Pench a thriving story of the fictional ‘jungle book’. For as long as we are only witness and nothing more to all the drama that takes place in these jungles, there will surely be more predator stories to share.

Trailing Vines and Wine Trails

We are all mortal until the first kiss and the second glass of wine…

– Eduardo Galeano

Imagine, then the immortality of tasting over 15 different wines in less than 24 hours? But I’m getting ahead of myself, before the immortality, lay a 5-hour journey across a highway under construction. I was heading, not towards the famed vineyards of California or Beaujolais, but in the direction of Nashik, a city a few hours away from the bustle of Mumbai (165 kilometres) and Pune (160 kilometres), in Maharashtra, India.

India seems like a rather unusual destination for a wine trail yet fruity, alcoholic beverages have been recorded in India since the Vedic times (1500 – 700 BCE). Vedic medical practitioners like Charaka and Susruta even advocated ‘moderate alcohol use’ for better health. ‘Somaras’, mentioned in ancient texts, is considered to be the juice of a high-altitude fruit (as yet unidentified) which was distilled to produce an intoxicating, aphrodisiacal spirit. Surprisingly, one study by F.R Allchin suggests that India might have been the home of alcoholic distillation.

As it is difficult to distinguish floral, fruity, fermented drinks mentioned in older texts with wine as we know it today – wine-making in India is considered to be a rather recent undertaking, and it all begins in Nashik.

Nashik’s wine story begins with a gamble – a farmer returned from education in California and decided to plant a few wine grape varieties on his family’s plot of table grapes. (Yes, something I learned recently, too – the varieties of grapes for wine are different from those we consume directly which are known as table grapes). He set up the first winery at Sula vineyards in 1999, and the rest, as they say, is history. Over the next few years, several other farmers followed suit, aided by the Maharashtra government’s 2001 policy that ensured no excise would be applied to wines made from grapes in the state. The grape farmers-turned-winemakers learned from one another, sent their kith and kin abroad to learn more about winemaking, and even hired sommeliers from other vineyards in France, Australia or California to create distinct, indigenous wines. Today, Nashik Valley is a patented geographical indicator for wines produced in India.

SulaVineyards
Nashik’s wine story begins at Sula Vineyards

Apart from Nashik, only the outskirts of Hampi in Karnataka (Krsma vineyards) and Ratlam in Madhya Pradesh (Ambi vineyards), produce indigenous wines in the country. Yet, in global circles, India’s wines are rapidly gaining acclaim, produced as they are in the unusual terroir of our rich, black soil, tropical climate and ample rainfall.

Intrigued by the story and lured by the chance to sample some of India’s indigenous spirits, I found myself in Nashik. On the outskirts of the city, to the west and south-west lie several vineyards, each growing a variety of grapes and producing their own range of wines. To retrace the history of the region, I started my wine trails at Sula vineyards. They run wine trails every hour to cater to their popularity with tourists from Mumbai and Pune, and I duly joined a mixed group of corporates and families as we were guided through their factory. We have explained the fascinating process of harvesting, crushing, fermentation, clarification, ageing and bottling – with the differences that create a white, rose or red wine. The temperatures in every room of the factory were chilly, which are the ideal conditions for wine-making and perhaps, the most expensive overhead for winemaking in India. Sadly, as it was still early in the season for grape-harvesting, we couldn’t actually see the winemaking in action. A visit in between January to March would be more ideal to see the entire winemaking process.

5SofWineTasting
5 S’s of Wine Tasting Image Courtesy: Sula Wines, Nashik

Finally, we were ushered into a sombre, tasting room with a large wooden counter with 6 bottles and numerous wine glasses that seemed to be waiting for us. A certified sommelier, then took us through the nuances of the ‘swirl, smell, see, sip and spit’ ritual of wine-tasting, as we were introduced to Sula’s incredible range with 2 white wines, 2 red wines, a pleasant rose ending on a high note with a sweet, Chenin Blanc dessert wine! I’d like to say that I tasted peaches and cherries, smelt woody fragrances and spices – yet, to the uninitiated, there’s a long journey before one can unlock the mysteries of wines. Suffice it to say, that I learned enough to appreciate wines better (and not pooh-pooh at the elitist, swirling wine-tasters!) and promised myself to enjoy them on the palate for longer than the quintessential, quick swig Indian drinker!

The following day, I was determined to scratch at more than just the surface of Nashik’s wine industry and I requested Manoj Jagtap, a self-learned, wine trail expert to guide me through. With his insights into the region’s history, a repertoire of experiences in vineyards across the world and his local savvy, we made our way across 3 other wineries in and around Nashik.

Nashik_SomaWinery_04
Soma Vine Village’s oak barreling section

Our first stop, Soma was a humble factory with an incredible production of wines; white, red, sparkling and rose. At Soma, I learned a little bit more about the aromas and flavours associated with different wines; the fruity, flowery flavours of white wines; the woody, oaky flavours of red wines; the bubbly, frothy feel of sparkling wines – and the wide terminology employed to describe them. Tapping into Manoj’s knowledge, I also heard the anecdotal story of how sparkling wines (as Champagne in France falls under a geographical indicator, the rest of the world uses the term sparkling wine to denote the bubbly beverage) were first created by monks. During cold French winters, the natural fermentation process of grape juice and yeast is retarded. The residual sugar and dormant yeast in the bottles, once stoppered with a cork, break down to form carbon dioxide. The buildup of carbon dioxide made bottles explode, much to the curiosity of the cellar monk, Dom Perignon. Upon tasting the foamy, bubbly wine, he continued experimentation till he stumbled upon a production-worthy ‘champagne’. Our tasting session included 6 wines, Soma’s range of 2 whites, 2 reds, a rose and a Chenin Blanc dessert wine – which was similar to Sula’s range in terms of grape varietals and names but had completely different flavours. Interestingly this time, I did taste guavas and smell pepper, but whether that was due to a palate being honed or a hyperactive imagination, I cannot say.

We drove on towards the south-west vineyards cluster, where the Grover Zampa farms lay. With impeccable gardens, an old-style stone structure and a hillside carpeted with vine trellises, Grover Zampa is an impressive vineyard. The only vineyard with a rugged landscape, I was told, as compared to the others growing on flatter topographies, Grover Zampa is reinventing itself. Once known as Zampa, it is rebranding its range of wines under the name Grover Zampa – with the help of Michel Rolland, the world famous wine consultant. A quick climb up the vineyard slopes cultivating grape varietals like Tempranillo, Shiraz and Viognier, offered a spectacular view of the nearby ridges and the glassy Mukane reservoir. During a visit to the factory, I saw the fascinating process of bottling; a team manually sticks labels onto bottles, then they are mechanically filled with wine, ending with the capping and sealing by another small team, before being put into boxes for storage and dispatch. While swirling and sipping some of Grover Zampa’s wines, I noticed some of their interesting, artsy wine bottle labels. Each year, Grover Zampa hosts artists from across India to enjoy the hospitality of the vineyards in exchange of artwork. Grover Zampa’s bottle labels currently feature the talent of contemporary artists like Sanjay Bhattacharya, Paresh Maity, among others inspired by the picturesque setting of the vineyards.

Nashik_GroverZampa_16
Grover Zampa’s designer labels featuring contemporary artists

Lastly, we stopped off at Vallonne vineyards, a boutique vineyard with a smaller production of more nuanced wines. Vallonne’s vineyards are closer to the Mukane reservoir, and their charming south-east Asian restaurant, Malaka Spice looks out onto its blue expanse. Malaka Spice is a well-known brand in Pune and seeing it in a rustic setting like Vallonne, was a pleasant surprise, especially as it was lunchtime. Interestingly, their menu paired most items with a suitable wine and their food was delectable – a must-visit for anyone looking for an unusual culinary experience in Nashik. Later, we traipsed through Vallonne’s small factory and were once more, taken through the winemaking process. After 4 wine trails, it may seem like the same old spiel, but if you listen closely, each vineyard has its own story to tell. Vallonne vineyard’s claim to fame is their Rose created with Cabernet Sauvignon, an unusual accomplishment, as also India’s first wine with the inky-purple Malbec grape varietal. What’s more, as a boutique vineyard, Vallonne allows you to commission your own wine to commemorate a special event, be it a birthday, a wedding or a lifetime achievement. Their special 1o litre barrels can be branded with your name, a logo or any other caption you’d like, and kept to age for as long as you’d like – after which, they can bottle your wine and send it across, along with the branded barrel. Sadly, with little time left before my long journey back to Pune, we had to skip the wine-tasting session at Vallonne.

Vallonne
Vallonne Valley overlooking the reservoir

Eduardo Galeano may not be quite right, as, after 15 glasses of wine, I’m still mortal (and I’m not tempted to test that!). Yet the curious expressions of a grape after crushing and fermentation, barrel-ageing and bottling, has surely made me eager to unravel the secrets of wines! For the spirit-tourists and the wine-enthusiasts alike, as also the culinary travellers looking for something different, I would heartily recommend a wine trail through Nashik for an unusual insight into the art of winemaking!