All posts by Charmaine Mirza

Slow Travel: A meander down the riverbanks of Bengal

“In India even the most mundane inquiries have a habit of ending this way. There may be two answers, there may be five, a dozen or a hundred; the only thing that is certain is that all will be different.”
                                                                  ― Eric Newby, Slowly Down the Ganges

            While India’s freedom struggle and her epic battle for independence inevitably focuses on the India-Pakistan divide, the truth is that the British Raj’s roots were first entrenched in the eastern part of the subcontinent by the erstwhile East India Company. In fact, several European countries held their first dominions in the kingdom of Bengal, including the Danish, Portuguese, French, and the Dutch, and the British were among the last to make their presence felt. When India finally freed herself from the British Raj, she ceded East Bengal to Pakistan, which then freed itself and became the country we know as Bangladesh. What remained in India was what we know as the state of West Bengal.

                  We recently took a fascinating journey down the Ganges in West Bengal and into India’s colonial past, onboard the ABN Raj Mahal, a boutique river-cruiser with just 22 cabins, excellent cuisine, and a thoroughly professional and knowledgeable crew.

            We set off from Calcutta [See our Facebook Posts on Calcutta at https://www.facebook.com/pages/Travel-Scope-India-Pvt-Ltd/456637484377809?ref=hl]. Serampore (or Shrirampur) is our first port of call. Serampore is many centuries old and has always been a thriving community and silk, cotton, betelnut, rice and jute made this a land of abundance and rich fertility. The Danes were the first Europeans to arrive here in the 1700s. During its Danish avatar, Serampore was known as Fredericksnagore.

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108 terracotta Shiva Temples at Ambika Kalna

 

Serrampore
Serrampore

 

            We take a historic walk through Barrackpore, which was famous – or notorious – for being the site of the first mutinies against British rule. In the first incident, a company of Indian soldiers were “erased” because they refused to cross the dark waters between India and Burma in the first Anglo-Burma war. In the second – and perhaps better known – incident, Mangal Pandey, a sepoy was courtmartialed for attacking a British Officer, and this lead to the first organized revolt, which ultimately became the struggle for India’s freedom.

Barrackpore_Near_Calcutta_(_Kolkata_)_-_Mid_19th_Century

            We wake up in the village of Matiari and visit the famous brass craftsmen of this region, before we cruise forward to Plassey – the epic battlefield where Robert Clive defeated Siraj-ud-Daulah, then Nawab of Bengal, which was the turning point that gave Britain the jewel in its crown.

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The Battle of Plassey

 

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A Major-General in the British army, Robert Clive ( please read: http://www.prisonersofeternity.co.uk/clive-of-india-the-making-of-empire/) was known as a ruthless, Machiavellian strategist – a manic depressive who had a taste for opium. Clive succeeded in securing India for the British Crown, and perpetuated Britain’s divide and rule policy in Bengal. The Nawab of Bengal at the time was Siraj-ud-Daulah, who had little use for the British, and laid siege to the city of Calcutta to extricate it from the British and return it into his kingdom’s fold. 

          During the Battle of Plassey, Siraj-ud-Daulah tried to flee, but was waylaid and assassinated by his own traitorous minister, Mir Jafar and his followers from the Nawab’s own court, who had colluded with Clive against him. Mir Jafar succeeded Siraj-ud-Daulah. Clive amassed a treasure and became a celebrated hero of the Crown, but in later years, the British Government turned again him for having such an enormous personal fortune. Shunned by his own society, finally took his own life.

Robert_Clive_and_Mir_Jafar_after_the_Battle_of_Plassey,_1757_by_Francis_Hayman
Robert Clive and Mir Jafar – after the Battle of Plassey has been concluded

            We find ourselves in Murshidabad and take a stroll through the peaceful Khushbagh (Garden of Happiness), which houses the tombs of the ill-fated Siraj-ud-Daulah and his family. Further along the river, Siraj-ud-Daulah’s magnificent palace, Hazarduari Palace has an extensive private collection of art and artifacts.

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Hazarduari – Palace of the Nawab of Bengal, Murshidabad

 

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Kotgala – a rich merchant’s house on the outskirts of Murshidabad, built in Georgian style

            Today we find ourselves in the heart of rural West Bengal. Amid mustard fields and mango orchards, we stop to visit the terracotta temples at Baranagar. At this point, the mighty Ganges is almost like a rivulet, winding through fields and sleepy villages. The back-roads of Bengal don’t belie the bloody battles that once shook its ground and only resonate a tranquil peace.

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A quiet moment on the Ganges

            As we moor near Farakka, we disembark, and take a full day road trip into the interior to visit the historic city of Gaur. Once a Hindu stronghold and then later a Muslim capital for over 200 years, Gaur has faded into oblivion, a quiet town with the remnants of beautiful palaces, gateways, and mosques scattered far from the hustle and bustle of contemporary India’s urban sprawl.

            From Farrakka we return to Calcutta with a heightened degree of perspective for where we have come from, after our voyage of discovery along the Mother Ganges.

 

Festive India – A Celebration of the Subcontinent | Travel Scope

Life is a song – sing it. Life is a game – play it. Life is a challenge – meet it. Life is a dream – realize it. Life is a sacrifice – offer it. Life is love – enjoy it.

                                                                                 – Sai Baba

 As the end of October draws near, excitement crackles as the air turns cooler and as India gears up for Sharad Navratri. Families and social organizations compete to throw the best Navratri parties, and food, drink and entertainment flow like there’s no tomorrow.

For the mythical demon King Ravanna, there really isn’t a tomorrow since these nine nights traditionally lead up to Dussehra , when he was finally slain by Lord Rama in that epic of Hindu mythology – the Ramayana. 

 

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The South Indian cultural center of Mysore celebrates Dussehra with pomp and pagentry!

But in fact, Navratri is really a celebration of Shakti – or feminine power, and each of the nine days is devoted to a celebration of her spirit in each of its different avatars. While in principal, Navratri is observed four times throughout the Lunar Calendar year, it is the Sharad Navratri which usually falls in October, that is the most celebrated of them all.

 To see the celebration of this festive spirit in its wildest abandon, head west to Gujarat. Here, the traditional way of celebrating these nine long nights is with a typical dance called the Garba, or the Dandiya, which involves groups of young men and women, decked out to the nines, dancing feverishly to the latest beats with a set of sticks that are beat rhythmically as they whirl in a mad exchange of partners. 

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Whirling to the Dandiya Raas beats in Gujarat

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A colourful Garba get up in Gujarat

On the eastern side of the sub-continent and even as far as Nepal, Durga, the most popular avatar of Shakti, is celebrated in truly epic proportions. Durga Puja is a five day celebration that sweeps through the entire east of India and Nepal.

 In mythology, Durga Puja is a celebration of Durga and her consort Shiva, as well as her children Lakshmi, Saraswati, Ganesha and Kakatiya – in fact, Durga Puja is an exquisite celebration of the arts and culture of the Indian subcontinent and the festival become a platform for some of the finest local artisans to display their skill. Calcutta springs to life and it’s worth visiting the city to witness the raw energy, emotion and excitement that fill the air.

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A Durga Puja procession in Calcutta – celebrating female power!

 As one of the countries with the most number of festivals and holidays in a year, India is a perpetual celebration. No matter which month you travel in, there is always a festival happening somewhere, and there’s really no better way to take your India travel moment and turn it into the memory of a lifetime than being immersed in this celebratory spirit.

 Indian festivals are all-embracing. So if you decide to don your oldest rags and play Holi, or want to immerse your Ganesha idol into the Arabian sea, or march in the procession behind the Dussehra elephants, or don a mask and participate in the Hemis festival, or kick back your heels to the Garba reel (Click here to see a great Garba video: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5fCGGToNK8k) , you’ll be welcomed, no matter where you are.

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The masked men at the Hemis Festival, Ladakh

Visit our Festival Calendar on Facebook to learn more about festivals in our part of the world!

https://www.facebook.com/456637484377809/photos/pcb.838403986201155/838402849534602/?type=1&theater

Call us today to plan your next journey.

Summer Holidays… An Indian Summer

“The Indian Summer has its own rainbow in nature… the vermillion flower on the Gulmohar, the canary yellow blossom of the Laburnum, violet virulence on the Jacaranda and pristine white Jasmine emits an unbelievable sweetness under a starry night sky.”

While most people across the world rue the Indian Summer as a hot and dry season, we embrace it! As we celebrated Holi last week, here in India, the colours of spring only remind us of the rich kaleidoscope (Click here to access our Travel Scope Kaleidoscope of Ideas) of things that once can do during the summer in India. We thought we would share some of our favourites with you:

 

Wildlife in India, Nepal and Sri Lanka

As the water holes start to dry up, the animals to come further out into the open– making animal sightings absolutely fantastic. Whether it’s the Royal Bengal Tiger or the Indian Elephant or the One-Horned Indian Rhino, the game parks are open until July 1, 2015 and there is no better time to plan your photo/adventure safari into the Subcontinent’s National Parks. Click here for our post on Travel Scope’s favourite parks and wildlife lodges.

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 Ayurveda, Wellness and Yoga…

The best time to surrender your body to Ayurvedic treatments is during the summer, as the Ayurvedic oils soak into one’s skin. The light diet, detoxifying treatments and soothing philosophical approach, make you feel uplifted, calmed and pure.

In the foothills of the Himalayas and beyond, it could be a hot stone bath in Thimphu or a soothing massage in Rishikesh that rejuvenates you. Whether it’s yoga in the desert or in the rain forest, in the soothing environs of somebody’s home in an urban environment or out in nature in the Himalayan foothills, our yoga ethos can be interspersed throughout your journey. Click here for our post on Travel Scope’s favourite wellness retreats and yoga.

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Exploring the Mountain Regions of Nepal, Bhutan, and India…

The feeling of liberation that comes from being at the top of the world is incredibly spiritual. Hues of rhododendron as you walk in Kumaon or the Indian North East, where bird song replaces the alarm clock; bursts of exhilaration while river-rafting on the Ganges or the Indus, the festivities in Bhutan and Ladakh, trekking in the mountains of Nepal and North India or simply ambling around the bazaars of Srinagar or Pokhara. Click here to link to our blog post On Top of the World.

 The Lap of Luxury…

If what you’re after is the luxury of space, the luxury of time and incredible comfort and service, then the summer is a great time to visit some of India’s finest luxury resorts and heritage hotels, at incredible value. While early mornings and evenings are great times to explore the bounty of destinations like Rajasthan or Hyderabad, mid-day is even better as you simply relax and take in the incredible serenity of your stay. Whether it’s a massage at the spa, or a cooking session with the chef, or a relaxing round of Billiards on the table belonging to the Nizam, what better way to unwind than in the style of the erstwhile Maharajas of India.

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So if you’re thinking of how to spend your summer, call us a call today!

 

Of Films & Fairytales…Lenseye – A Cinematic Journey through India

{ “What do you do?”

“I am a dream-catcher.

I take your reality

and weave you a fantasy.” }

 

This is a story that begins in the heart of Calcutta, just before the turn of the century. The moving image had come to town and a far-sighted Bengali gentleman named Hiralal Sen brought the stage to screen with his moving biopics.

[Cut to Mumbai.]

On the other side of the country, Mumbai’s Marathi speakers were a visionary and cultural bunch. The stage was set with a strong tradition of theater already in place. The Wrestlers (1899) by H. S. Bhatavdekar showing a wrestling match at the Hanging Gardens in Mumbai was the first film ever to be shot by an Indian. The Indian documentary was born.

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One of the greatest intellectuals of the time, Dadasaheb Phalke took his scholarly roots in Sanskrit literature and linguistics, and made Raja Harishchandra – the first full length feature film to be made in India. He unwound a reel in history which would never turn back.

[Dissolve to then-Madras/ now-Chennai.]

A well-known Tamilian artist, Raghpathi Venkaiah Naidu, brought silent film to South India as far back as 1909 – but not even he could have predicted that over a century later, the Tamil Film Industry would lead globally in terms of the volume of films produced. Kollywood, the Tamil Film industry has out-stripped Hollywood, Bollywood and Chinese cinema, to become the highest producing film industry in the world today. So strong is the influence of the silver screen in the south, that its leading stars have become elevated to the status of demi-gods. Many of them have entered that other drama we call politics and a seat in parliament is the sequel for these stars of yesteryear.

If Tamil Nadu spawned the early eggs of South Indian film, Andhra Pradesh was not to be left far behind. Hyderabad has outstripped her southern sister Chennai in the field of technology and has become home to the Ramoji Film Studios, one of the world’s largest film production studios in existence today. Just as her domes and minarets, palaces and fortresses juxtapose themselves against glass and chrome and the earthy red boulders of the Deccan Plateau, Hyderabad in the heart of the country is a city that has risen time and again like a phoenix from the ashes of drama and a cultural diaspora that has come to rest at her feet from far and wide.

Ramoji_film_city

[Fade (back) to Bombay/ Mumbai.]

But wait! What’s Bollywood?

Cinema really started speaking to the Indian audience in the thirties when Ardeshir Irani, a film-maker from Mumbai, produced Alam Ara, India’s first “talkie” or a film with sound.

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A Vintage Film Poster from the 30s for Alam Ara, the first Talkie film in India         

And in the heady era of the 20s and 30s Bombay, when the city was on its cataclysmic rise to being the star in the empire’s crown, cinema stole the minds and hearts of the masses. Irani followed up Alam Ara’s success in Hindi, with Kalidasa, a talkie in Tamil, and soon the Talkies took the south by storm. Swamikannu Vincent, who had built the first cinema of South India in Coimbatore, introduced the concept of “Tent Cinema” in which a tent was erected on a stretch of open land close to a town or village to screen the films. The first of its kind was established in Madras, called “Edison’s Grand Cinemamegaphone”.

[Pause.]

Critically speaking, Indian cinema has had six major influences – The Great Indian Epics – Ramayana and Mahabharata; Sanskrit Drama (with its rich tradition of song and dance); Folk Theater (that brought folklore and local legend to life in the troubadour tradition); Parsi Theater (which blended a comedy of errors and wisdom to create melodrama); Hollywood and other Western Film Influences (particularly the likes of Charlie Chaplin). Each of these honed the diaspora of Indian Cinema into a rich fondue of film culture.

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A Scene from Dushyant and Shakuntala – from Valmiki’s Sanskrit Drama.

Whether it was Hindi cinema (Bollywood’s primary language medium is Hindi) or Gujarati cinema, with its comic twists, Brajbhasha, from Uttar Pradesh and Rajasthan with its community and social issues, or Bhojpuri cinema from the Eastern quadrant of Uttar Pradesh with its themes of local life , Assamese film from the far reaches of the North East, or Punjabi and Sindhi film from the North West Frontier Province that highlight the issues faced by those communities that lie at either extreme of the country – the cinematic cult has moved beyond the boundaries of being sheer entertainment to being a culture unto itself.

[Location. Location. Location.]

Film makers love their bastions and Kashmir has long been the darling of film producers and some of India’s most iconic films have been shot in the valleys of Gulmarg and Srinagar – until political strife forced film makers to move to other locations – and it’s no surprise that some of these hidden gems like Gwalior, Jodhpur and Bekal, are fortified cities whose atmosphere has been brought to life on the silver screen.

 

Nor are the coasts of India to be left behind. Not only do Konkani and Malyalam film from the Malabar coasts of Goa, Karnataka and Tamil Nadu have their own strong following, the Konkan and Malabar coasts are hot favorites for film directors to shoot their films and the bastions of history that once defended the empires of emperors like Tipu Sultan, have reinvented history by becoming the locations of popular film culture.

[And the show goes on.]

When Raj Kapoor sang the song … Mera joota hain japani…he not only spread Bollywood into the outer realms of the great wide world, but also defined the essence of the fact that Indian Cinema cuts through the morass of regional divide, or religion, class and language. Bollywood provided that much needed suspension of belief and gave hope a home in an otherwise turbulent post-Independence era. (See our facebook post on Raj Kapoor)

Simultaneously, another school of cinema, Parallel Cinema, created its own niche with realism, originating in Bengali Literature as essential inspiration which gave rise to the Tollygunge crowd of directors like Satyajit Ray, and more recently, inspiring genres of Independent film makers like Mira Nair, Shyam Benegal, or Deepa Mehta, who have given important social issues a platform on screen.

[Does Art Imitate Life? Or Does Life Imitate Art?]

India is a perpetual story in the making. From the boy who hawks lemonade on the sidewalk with stars in his eyes, to the old man who hums Bollywood tunes of yesteryear in the shower. Nawazuddin Siddiqui was one such man who came from Muzaffarnagar, a region ridden by communal strife in Uttar Pradesh, a young man with the clothes on his back and a little money in his pocket to make his future in Bollywood. After going unnoticed for almost five years, he struck it big in Aamir Khan’s box office hit, Talaash, and once again Bollywood worked its magic and made this young man’s fantasy true.

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Talaash – a recent blockbuster by Aamir Khan

[Reality/ Fantasy]

It’s these stories that unfold every second – more fortunate, less fortunate – that are fodder for our inspiration. But it would go amiss not to mention the critical role that the Indian documentary has played – not only in film culture, but in Indian society as a whole. Whether it’s the artful documentaries of those who focus on social issues like the integration of tribes into modern day society, or repatriating refugees, to the raw footage of a tiger making a kill, the mating dance of a peacock or life in a surreal BPO (Business Process Outsourcing Units) cyber world, or the lack of ethics in Big Pharma, its these documentary film makers who often go unnoticed and un-applauded but are an equally important tangent to the industry and society.

But as today’s genre of contemporary Indian cinema starts to highlight the reality of modern society, perhaps the two will merge –the first Indian film was a documentary afterall.

New Beginnings: A Journey to the Soul of the Subcontinent

“Travel brings power and love back to your life” – Rumi

While Western world civilizations from the Mayans to the Norse predict the end of the world in this century, our eastern roots urge us to look at every death as a rebirth, every misstep as a step in a new direction, every end as a new beginning.

In a year where the world precariously draws on hope as it crawls out of the vortex of recession, perhaps the lesson should be not to grasp those things that are without, but those things that are within.

 (Contact us today to learn more about our Mind, Body & Soul signature journeys in North and South India)

Pause – to imbibe the scent of the forest floor. 

Biking

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Breathe – the fragrance of the frangipani in bloom. 

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Savour the strength of the sesame oil as it soaks into the pores of your skin.

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Caress the velvet that is the moss that grows in the crevices of the forest stream.

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Listen to the rhythm of the whisper in the wind and the waves of the ocean’s symphony.

hammock

Draw on the energy of the bees that thrive at the highest peaks in the world.

006 Nanda Devi 7816m from Kalmatia Sangam

We are only the choir in Nature’s opera on that stage we call the universe.

Drawing on our inner spirit, innovation, and imagination, rather than using fragile systems that have broken down and serve as crutches that cripple us further, calls for courage and strength.

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When the true rishis and fakirs of the Himalayas meditate naked in the snow, they are in complete control of their mind, body and soul – drawing on their own breath, fat, and mental prowess for succor. When the harsh sun beats down upon the ravines of the Chambal ravine, it is the same inner tranquility that keeps their body nourished and cool.

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Bateshwar - Naga Ascetic copy 

When the sun seeps in through your eyelids on a cool morning in Gokarna as you raise your head in your first surya namaskar of the day, or dries the dew that clings to your brow as you watch the Painted Storks on the gorges of the Ken River in Panna.

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When the lone moan of the Tibetan horn penetrates your consciousness, and the hot stones in the Bhutanese bath warm your soul. When the warmth of the waves licks your toes on the shores of Sri Lanka and the brilliant plumage of the kingfisher as it takes its maiden dive of the day into the lake at Ashtamudi opens your eyes to the glory of every living thing around us.

1095 north of Chapora Beach 

We are borne from nature. And the figments of our material lives lose meaning when one awakens to the awareness that all life neutralizes to carbon atoms and not much else. Awakening the awareness within us that opportunity lies at every fork in the road. Recognizing its strength and leveraging it is the essence of life.

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New Beginnings: Soul Journeys in the Indian Subcontinent

While Western world civilizations from the Mayans to the Norse predict the end of the world in this century, our eastern roots urge us to look at every death as a rebirth, every misstep as a step in a new direction, every end as a new beginning. 

In a year where the world precariously draws on hope as it crawls out of the vortex of recession, perhaps the lesson should be not to grasp those things that are without, but those things that are within.

 

 

Pause – to imbibe the scent of the forest floor. [image: forest walks in Corbett]

Breathe – the fragrance of the frangipani in bloom. [image: frangipani in spa bowl]

Savour the strength of the sesame oil as it soaks into the pores of your skin.

[image: ayurvedic massage]

Caress the velvet that is the moss that grows in the crevices of the mountain stream.

[image: Himalayan walks]

Listen to the rhythm of the whisper in the wind and the waves of the ocean’s symphony.

[image: Nirmaaya kovalam beach scene]

Draw on the energy of the bees that thrive at the highest peaks in the world.

            [image: mountains]

We are only the choir in Nature’s opera on that stage we call the universe.

 

Drawing on our inner spirit, innovation, and imagination, rather than using fragile systems that have broken down and serve as crutches that cripple us further, calls for courage and strength.

 

When the true rishis and fakirs of the Himalayas meditate naked in the snow, they are in complete control of their mind, body and soul – drawing on their own breath, fat, and mental prowess for succor. When the harsh sun beats down upon the ravines of the Chambal ravine, it is the same inner tranquility that keeps their body nourished and cool.

 

[image: sadhus meditating in the caves near bateshwar]

 

When the sun seeps in through your eyelids on a cool morning in Risihikish as you raise your head in your first surya namaskar of the day, or dries the dew that clings to your brow as you watch the Brahmini Kite soaring over the gorges of the Ken River in Panna.

 

[image: Panna & ananda}

 

When the lone moan of the Tibetan horn penetrates your consciousness, and the hot stones in the Bhutanese bath warm your soul. When the warmth of the waves licks your toes on the shores of Sri Lanka and the brilliant plumage of the kingfisher as it takes its maiden dive of the day into the lake at Ashtamudi opens your eyes to the glory of every living thing around us.

 

[image: Ladakh and Sri Lanka]

 

We are borne from nature. And the figments of our material lives lose meaning when one awakens to the awareness that all life neutralizes to carbon atoms and not much else. Awakening the awareness within us that opportunity lies at every fork in the road. Recognizing its strength and leveraging it is the essence of life.

Strike A Chord: Lahi Lahi… Snippets from the Slow Road through the North East of India

 

Let your life lightly dance on the edges of Time like dew on the tip of a leaf.

– Rabindranath Tagore

 

The Girls from Guwhati…

One of the first things I learnt from our hosts in Guwahati (the capital of Assam) was the words Lahi Lahi, which signifies a slow pace of life. Guwahati was our gateway to the North East of India and Papori, a native of Assam, and her sister became not only our hosts but baptized us in the ways of the North East.

Papori’s sister fed us a sumptuous meal of local delicacies at her guest house, Shantiniketan, in an upscale neighborhood of Guwahati, and we stuffed our faces while the two sisters regaled us with stories of their childhood in Guwahati.

 

We then moved on to Prabhakar House, home of the gracious and charming Sheila Bora, which she has lovingly converted into a beautiful home-stay. A former teacher of tourism at the university in Guwahati, Sheila’s home is a reflection of her impeccable taste and has the intimate touch of a meticulous home owner who treats every visitor as her personal guest.

Prabhakar House, Guwhati, Assam

Sheila is a historian and an expert on the history and culture of the states of North Eastern India and has written a couple of books. She is passionate about it and shares her experiences and knowledge of the region with her guests over a cup of tea or an evening drink.

 The Nine Celestials…

We ascended the steps to the Navagraha Temple in Guwahati and entered a sanctum that was utterly surreal. Nine Shiva Lingams emerge from the ground in a natural formation – each one representing a planet. The sanctum is high on energy and the sounds resonating out of the chanting were other worldly

Navgraha Temple, Guwhati, Assam

Call of the Wild…

As we traveled from Guwahati towards Kaziranga National Park, we broke journey briefly to visit the Pobitora wildlife sanctuary. Rhinos, wild buffaloes, wild boars, several species of butterfly, and around 350 species consisting of both endemic and migratory birds roam freely in this wetland wilderness, which sports the highest density of One-Horned Indian Rhinos today. In season, the silk cotton and cleome bursts into bloom and colours the tree-line a dusty rose hue.

A One Horned Rhino peers out at us through the elephant grass in Kaziranga National Park, Assam

Kaziranga is one of the most beautiful wildlife parks that I have visited. The safari takes you through divers landscapes of the Park that comprises of open grasslands with numerous water bodies, thick woodlands and high grasslands. 

The main attraction is the Single Horned Rhino which has been brought back from extinction. Today this mammal is thriving at Kaziranga with about 2300 Rhinos in an area of 1000 Sq Km. The Big Five of Kaziranga include the Rhino, Elephants, Tiger, Wild Buffalo and The Swamp Deer. We spotted 4 out of 5 on our only drive, besides numerous varieties of birds and otters. The core area of Kaziranga’s forests has been increased to 1002 Sq. Km after the recent change in regulations brought about by the Supreme Court.

 

The Western Range and Central range each have a sizeable population of Kaziranga’s big five as well as several other species of deer, birds, otters and Chital Fish. The Eastern range has fewer mammals but is excellent for birding and has stunning vistas over the Brahmaputra River. The Far Western range is a new range that has been opened and is great to see Hoollock Gibbons, Capped Langur, Gangetic Dolphins, Malayan Giant Squirrels and Hornbills.

 

Our naturalist Babloo had an extensive knowledge of Kaziranga’s wildlife and was a keen bird spotter – a tremendous asset to have with us on our drive. The Diphlu River Lodge is the best place to stay in Kaziranga. The cottages are built on stilts using locally sourced material. All the rooms are set around a paddy cultivation within the property.

 

Sidewinding with the Dolphins…

Enroute from Kaziranga to Balipara one has the option of doing a ferry cruise on the Brahmaputra to view Gangetic Dolphins along with a local “boatman’s lunch” cooked by the boatmen on a small island in the river.

 

The South Asian river dolphin has the long, pointed nose characteristic of all river dolphins. Its teeth are visible in both the upper and lower jaws even when the mouth is closed. They are unique among cetaceans in that they swim on their sides. These dolphins are practically blind and navigate primarily using echolocation.

 

A River of Blood…

Tezpur has an interesting story connected with it’s name. It was called Sonitpur before a battle ensued between Lord Shiva and Lord Krishna. It’s a mythological story that involves the Grand Nephew of Lord Krishna Aniruddha and the daughter of the King of Sonitpur, Vanraja. The daughter wanted to marry Krishna’s grand nephew, Aniruddha but the father refused and sought the help of Lord Shiva to wage a battle against Lord Krishna. And the blood that was shed in the battle gave the town its name, TEZPUR, as TEZ in Assamese means blood.

 

Living The Plantation Life…

We checked in at the Wild Mahasheer, which is a collection of Managers Bungalows on the Balipara Division of the Addaparie Tea Estates. Meals are served in the main restaurant called First Flush built like a glass house. It has a wonderful display of tea tasting paraphernalia and the different variety of tea grown in the Balipara estate.The accommodations a very comfortable with old world décor and furniturel. Each bungalow has a living area and bed rooms with attached facilities. A sit out and a garden complete the experience of staying in a British Raj estate bungalow.

The tea gardens of the Addaparie Tea Estate, Beliappa, Assam

Wild Mahaseer is a destination unto itself and from here, one can indulge in a range of activities that make memories of a lifetime. Whether its heading to afternoon tea in the middle of a tea-estate on elephant back, or river-rafting on the Jia Bhoroli with a visit to Nameri National Park, a cooking session with the chefs, or a stroll through some of the Mishing tribal villages located close by.

 

On the ground in Ziro…

Most of the drive is through wild banana and bamboo forest, with occasional pine trees when one is at a height. The drive is through peaks and valleys, some of which are home to beautiful groves of orange trees.

An Apatani Tribal Elder, Ziro, Arunachal Pradesh

 

We started our day in Ziro with a visit to the Apatani village. We met our guide Mischi enroute, who is a member of the tribe himself. The Apatani’s pray to Doni Polo which means Sun and Moon. Their homes are made entirely out of Bamboo. Each family owns a Bamboo plantation. Each village has a clan head who settles small disputes. The Shamans conduct elaborate rituals and animal sacrifice seems an integral part of their lives, be treating a sick person, performing a wedding or celebrating a festival. Right from chickens, to pigs, to monkeys, dogs or the mithun cows, the sacrifice it all. Just hearing all this from our guide gave me goose pimples. I wonder how they must be living it. But that’s what life is about in these tribes. They are very particular about all these rituals and believe that perils will fall on anyone who does not follow them. The people of Arunachal Pradesh have migrated from different parts of North Eastern states and some other countries such as Nepal, Bhutan, Myanmar and further east such as Mongolia and China. They were basically a race of hunter-gatherers as nothing much could be cultivated in this land and hence lived out of what was available in the forests. These villages are undergoing a transition period where the old homes are now being re-built in the same style with modern touches.

 

Our last spot for the day was the tall Shiva Lingam. I believe it’s the world’s largest lingam. It’s a located at a short drive from the town at an amazingly beautiful spot. It’s a natural formation of the Shiva Lingam with an Elephant head signifying Lord Ganesha and a Nandi formation on either side. We ended the day spending an hour with our guide Mischi in his uncle’s house in typical Apatani tradition sitting around a fire and chatting while the family and mischi drank rice beer.

 

Black Apong and in the Blue Yonder of Passighat…

Yane Dai is an old timer in the travel business who has pioneered adventure travel in Arunachal. Her husband (a look alike of Danny Denzongpa) was a bureaucrat in the Arunachal State government. A well read and knowledgeable person who can interact well with guests , he is a mine of information on the North East history and culture. Dinner with Dai and her husband (cooked by their son Neno) was a great experience. We learned quite a bit about North East and particularly Arunachal tribes etc. But the best part was the Black Apong. This is a local liquor that that is made of fermented rice processed with smoke and ash. It was delicious and tasted like vintage white wine. With that they served boiled beans marinated in chilly and ginger sauce. It was simply superb.

 

We started the next day with a simple breakfast and proceeded with Nino and his brother on a three kilometer hike across the Siang River to visit the villages of the Adi Tribe. This was one of the best moments on this trip. A very challenging experience as it involves hiking through some challenging terrain. The first part was all downhill and then crossing the bamboo bridge on the Siang, which is certainly a thrilling experience. The actual trek starts once we cross the bridge, with beautiful views of the river and the mountains on one side and wilderness on the other.

 

Braised in Bamboo…

Today we had an organic tribal cuisine lunch. A rewarding experience after all that walking and hiking. The meal was entirely cooked using Bamboo tubes and indigenous herbs and spices which made it delicious. The dishes included sticky rice, dry banana flower, lentils cooked with yam, boiled spinach with garlic and a pork dish specially cooked for the meat eaters. The meal would have been incomplete without the home-made Apong.

Picnic lunch cooked in Bamboo tubes

Striking Black Gold in Digboi…

We then drove upto DIGBOI, the first oil township of India. This is where oil was first explored and found by the British in 1889. Indian Oil established a museum at Digboi to commemorate 100 years of India’s Oil Heritage at Digboi. This is one of the most interesting museums to visit and learn about the explorations by the British and the establishment of the Burma Oil Company in the late 19th Century.

 

Digboi also played an important role for Allied forces during the 2nd world war as they built bunkers to save the Allies from air raids conducted by the Japanese. There’s also a war memorial dedicated to soldiers who laid down their lives during the war.

 

Not far from Digboi is the Stillwell road that was built during the 2nd world war to connect India with China through Ledo in Arunachal Pradesh, as the Japanese had blocked the Burma route. The road is named after General Joseph Stillwell who was then the commander of the Allied forces in the area.

 

Birding with Benu da…

Dibru Soikhowa is the story of one man’s efforts to protect and promote this riverine Island which is home to some of the rare species of birds such as spotbills, bar headed geese, ruddy shell ducks, greater cormorants, mallards, common teals etc.

 

Benu Da as he is fondly called by his people, dedicated his life to conservation efforts in the area which brought nature lovers from different parts of the country and this world to this place. Like many conservationists Benu also has a past with poaching but soon realized that he rather spent his time conserving the area. Initially he faced a lot of resistance from the system and the people but slowly overcame all that to put this place on the wildlife tourism map. Excursions are done using a boat to cruise around the park and get off the boat for a walk inside to see grassland birds as well as a wide variety of orchids.

Orchids in the wild

You can leave your hat on…

We spotted a Nishi tribal on the way and stopped to take pictures. Apart from his headgear which was typically Nishi, the rest of his attire was absolutely modern. Infact he was looking great in his jacket and trousers and his traditional headgear, gazing at his cell phone, while I was photographing him. I have been wanting to sport a headgear like that ever since. Hope I find it at Hornbill Festival.

 

The driving experience in Assam is very pleasant during this time of the year, as the countryside is beautiful. The paddy is ready for harvest and we see farmers and the women folk working on the fields. The entire stretch of drive from North Lakhimpur to Passighat consists of wetlands on one side and paddy fields on the other. We also see people fishing in waist deep waters. Their techniques are fascinating to observe.

Coming home after a day in the fields, Majuli Island, Assam

The Ahom Ancients of Assam…

Sibsagar was the capital city of the Ahom rulers of Assam, and while much of the Ahom heritage has faded into oblivion, we are lucky to find a local enthusiast who tells us about this ancient reign. Our history teacher for the day, Anant, a news reporter for a local channel called Parag TV. He is an enthusiast who has a keen interest in the history of Sibsagar. A self-taught and self-styled story-teller, he recounts the history of Sibsagar’s history, architecture and heritage with immense pride.

Ahom Architecture 

Anant recounts several stories from local lore and one that impressed me was about the Dola Muslim community who are invited to play drums at the Devi temple during Durga Puja. In appreciation and gratitude of their participation they are offered a part of the sacrificial goat. This tradition had briefly been stopped due to Hindu / Muslim communal issues until it was reinstated recently.

Another interesting tale was about the Joy Dol which was our next stop. The Joy Dol was built in the memory of Joymati the wife of Gadhadhar Singha one of the Ahom rulers.

 

We then drove to a Shatra a Vaishnavite monastery. This one was special as it is also the residence and work place of artists who make masks that are used in the dance performances based on stories from Indian mythology.

The Vaishnavite Community, Majuli Island, Assam

These monasteries also house the NAM GHOR. The Nam Ghor’s are places of spiritual gathering where there is no idol worship like in temples. Instead they place the Bhagwat Gita in the sanctum and people sit in a circle and chant versus from the Gita. A kind of community prayer.

 

Majuli Masquerade…

We took a ferry from Neemghat on the mainland to Majuli Island, the largest river island in the Brahmaputra, and home to a fascinating community of Vaishnavites. We disembarked our ferry and set out for the Vaishnavite Satra. Majuli is the largest river island measuring approximately 1200 Sq Km. However due to a unstemmed erosion, the island has shrunk to approximately 890 Sq Km. It’s a great place for birders and ideal for walking and bicycling activities besides exploring the neo-vaishnavite culture of this island. One of the best times to visit Majuli is during the Raas festival that is held during the full moon after Diwali when the Raas Leela is performed throughout the island.

 

At this Satra, we saw artists creating idols for Gayan Bayan which is a live art form in which the monks perform using cymbals and drums, which evolves into a traditional form of musical performance art, practiced within the Vaishnavite community in Assam.

 

We also meet the master artist who demonstrated the art of making masks as well as using them in the dance form of Bhauna and spiritual Raas performances. It reminded me of Kathakali in Kerala, except that in Bhauna they use face make up and masks to represent characters from Indian mythology.

 

Over the years they have also improved on the model of these masks to give a real touch while enacting scenes.

Masked dancers, Majuli Island, Assam

Majuli also has a big population of the people of missing tribes who eke out their sustenance along the banks of the river. Their homes are typically tribal in design and made of bamboo. This is one of the best examples of sustainable living.

 

 

 

 

Cities of the Future: Demystifying the Indian Urban Jungle

“We gonna run run run
To the cities of the future
Take what we can and bring it back home
So take me down to the cities of the future
Everybody’s happy and I feel at home”

– Lyrics: Cities of the Future – Infected Mushroom

 

One only has to touch down in India at any major gateway (and some not so major ones) to know that things have taken a step up since the last century. India’s new airports are no longer just functional points of entry where you can get your passport stamped – but at the same time are art galleries, shopping arcades, gourmet dining outlets, and recreation zones. [Click here: http://www.csia.in/atcsia/International-T2.aspx to take a look at latest addition on the airport landscape – the long awaited T2 in Mumbai]

            And it doesn’t stop when you leave the airport. Getting around has just got easier. Ubers rub bumpers with tuk-tuks, and metros and monorails compete with the Local. 

Riding the local train in Mumbai
India’s teeming metro cities are rapidly finding ways to out-maneuver their own chaos. We’re sure that the original scribe of the Mahabharata (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Mahabharata) never imagined that Guru Dronacharya (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Drona) would have a metro station named in his honour – much less that it would be accessible at the touch of a finger on the free Delhi Metro app.[http://www.delhimetrorail.com/mobile-app.aspx] 

India is on the move and sustainability is the direction an increasing number of citizens are trying to take (including our new government!) – bicycles (check out our urban bike rides post on facebook), farm to table (check out our farm to table experiences on facebook), organic markets and preserving our neighborhoods are only some of the initiatives that have protagonists across the country.

Hauz Khas Village, New Delhi
Even as the number of automobiles on India’s roads continues to rise, in many cities we’re going back to the bicycle. While the ubiquitous pedal-pusher never really left the Indian road-scape, its re-emergence as a cool new alternative to get around India’s cities (not to mention, the latest way to get your adrenaline rush) is making waves as bicycle clubs are rapidly burgeoning in major cities across the country. In this respect, Gurgaon in the National Capital Region, has eclipsed its counterparts, by declaring some of its roads closed to motor vehicles on Rahgiri days (every Sunday) to encourage bicyclists and pedestrians to step out and engage in the community. [http://raahgiriday.com/)

 On another note, Mumbai’s BNHS (link to BNHS) valiantly upholds a strong suit for the city’s avian population with its bird walks, and in Hyderabad, one can explore the city’s heritage from a unique perspective – literally – from the top of a boulder, as one walks through these mammoth rocks to uncover the geological history of the city.

Bouldering in Hyderabad
The North Eastern influx into Delhi is a small example of a growing subculture that has yielded funky results – from B&Bs like the new Nagaland inspired Naga Ki (https://www.facebook.com/pages/Naga-Ki/277883465748733?ref=page_internal&sk=likes) , to fine dining eateries like Yeti, and musical acts from Guwhati and Shillong. Fusion has taken on a whole new avatar with restaurants like Indian Accent (http://www.indianaccent.com/restaurant.php). As the trend moves towards eating healthy – breakfast has become the new dinner (Check out our facebook post on breakfast in Bombay!).

Hotels have got on the bandwagon too and IPOD docs, wireless keyboards, adapter-less plug points, and Jeeves-like TVs are now de rigeur even in hotels that ooze classic grandeur and charm – it’s personal shopping, supreme spa experiences, and intimate niches of exoticism that compete neck to neck to create oases of customized tranquility.

But what we love most is the eclectic new communities that have sprung out of the womb of our cultural heritage and whether it’s Black Theater Dinners in Hyderabad (http://www.dialogueinthedarkindia.com/), an ode to the commode at Gurgaon’s quirky Museum of Toilets (check out our destination driven post on Gurgaon on Facebook), or art on the move at Gurgaon’s Transport Anti-Museum. There’s new inspiration in the written word and Literature Festivals in Jaipur, Mumbai and Hyderabad (http://jaipurliteraturefestival.org/) have recently found international acclaim. The performing arts are alive and well – and Bangalore, with its rich heritage of Carnatic music (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Carnatic_music) is home to some of India’s newest and most interesting debuts on the music scene. But Carnatic music also comes into its own in Chennai every December with a city festival that celebrates the performing arts across venues. Contemporary Indian art continues to flourish at the Cholamandal Artist’s Village in Chennai.

Architecture always leaves its stamp on a city from era to era and nowhere is this more apparent than in Bangalore. From the wooden palaces of the Wodeyars, the delicate eaves of the Colonials, the bold designs of the Art Decos, and the glass, chrome and steel sleekness of today, Bangalore is a dichotomy of natural greenery and concrete jungle. Nowhere is the juxtaposition of layers of old and new, mainstream and alternative, jostling side by side for space, more pronounced than in India’s tech-heir apparent for the City of the Future.

Bangalore International Convention Center
As India’s cities transform exponentially in an eternal butterfly motif, we invite you to travel with us and experience the evolution first hand.

 

 

When Two Souls Meet: Music from the Mountains of The Indian Subcontinent

“Only when you drink from the river of silence, shall you indeed sing. And when you have reached the mountain-top, then you shall begin to climb. And when the earth shall claim your limbs, then shall you truly dance.”

– Khalil Gibran

Music Makes Us Smile!

In the far reaches of Ladakh’s outdoors, one hears…the Indus and the Zanskar dribbling over pebbly riverbeds, the wind whisper and howl alternatively through the crevices in the Transhimalaya, and the bird song. Soft, incessant tweets that rent the air with symphonies so sweet, they move grown men to tears.

But if you move indoors, into the soothing dimness of the gompas, you will hear a a stirring hum – a soft crescendo of reverberation that has a music all of its own.  It’s called a singing bowl.

A lesson in making the bowl sing, is a lesson in life.

There is an art to making the brass bowl sing. One has to tap it just right on its rim, and then stir rhythmically until it almost mesmerises the stirrer as he or she meditates and goes into a gentle trance with the reverberations from its hum.

 

The Tibetan Horn is used as a cry to prayer, a cry to the community to gather, a cry to dispel the silence of this mountainous Shangre-La.

The Tibetan Horn is often used as a call to action

Much of Tibetan Folk Music has a spiritual overtone, and the Lama Mani troubadour tradition of singing a song for one’s supper, tells of many Buddhist parables through the medium of song. In accompaniment, the Buddhist Thangka paintings would depict the narrative of this otherwise oral tradition, and helped to create a legacy of learning.

A Buddhist Thangka painting depicts a goddess of music!

The Wangala Festival [http://megtourism.gov.in/garofest.html] is a terrific platform for the music of Meghalaya, much of which comes from the Garo Tribe. Dance, music and traditional games are performed at this annual gathering at Asananggre, near Tura, to celebrate the winter harvest. Garo tribals from as far as Bangladesh come from across the region to perform on their chigrings, sarenadas, buffalo horns and flutes.

In neighboring Kathmandu, The Nepal Music Festival [http://www.nepalmusicfestival.org/nmf/] which the spirit of People, Peace, and Progress. An annual event which takes place in December at Bhrikutimandap Park in the city, it’s become a powerful platform for Nepalese folk music.

A deep look into your soul: Swayambhunath temple, Kathmandu, Nepal

Music takes to its own in the mountains and while festivals like Wangala and the Hornbill Festival (http://www.hornbillfestival.com/)in nearby Nagaland are a showcase for tribal culture and music, other festivals like The Ziro Music Festival [http://zirofestival.com/] in Arunachal Pradesh in the East and Himachal Pradesh in the West, have become a platform for local and international talent in genres ranging from rock and ska, to psychedelic trance.  [http://www.festivalsherpa.com/the-sherps-ultimate-guide-to-music-festivals-in-india/]

The Hornbill Festival Line Up!

A short descent from the Himalayan heights of Arunachal Pradesh, Gauwhati in Assam is well known for its rock music scene and has spawned several of its own prodigy including local legends like Angarag Mahanta (Assamese: অংগৰাগ মহন্ত) better known by his nickname Papon.

The Ziro Music Festival Posters are an art unto themselves!

So whether you opt to meditate with your singing bowl, let your hair down by rocking it out, or to simply listen to nature’s orchestra, your Himalayan amphitheater awaits. Contact the team at Travel Scope to learn more about the Indian Subcontinent’s rich musical traditions.

 

Twists on the Traditional: Jodhpur – beyond the pale in the Blue City

Jodhpur:

Beyond the pale in the Blue City

The whole experience was wonderful, stimulating and very exciting! Travel Scope did a great job in making all the arrangements and we would definitely recommend this trip to our friends!

Nancy Schapiro and Gerald Portnoy

There is a stark strength to Jodhpur. The city stands as the last frontier – coexisting with the sand-dunes of the Thar Desert.

A walk through the marketplace, Jodhpur

Perhaps it’s the muscle of Meherangarh Fort which towers protectively over the skyline. Or the sprawling handsomeness of Umaid Bhawan Palace, whose dome is a landmark for miles around.

There is wildness here – in the black buck that roam the scrubby forests, in the Bishnoi tribes who are scattered around the city, in the breeze – warm by day, but chilly at night – which reminds you that this city is your final bastion against the desert’s seductive mirage. (Don’t miss our Running Wild post on Instagram!)

Most people spend just a couple of days here – or simply pass through overnight – without exploring beyond the pale, but at Travel Scope we know that there’s so much more that lies within the walls of in the blue city and the people behind them.

Jodhpur’s old city is tinted a faint indigo and hence its name – The Blue City. There are many beliefs propounded for the coloring of the walls. Some say it is to ward off the harsh desert sun and keep the limestone walls just that much cooler. Others say it was to demarcate the homes of the Brahmins who lived here centuries ago, and the tradition has simply continued. We believe that it could just be that a little colour helps to lighten up everyone’s life!

The Blue City, Jodhpur

(Click here for our Facebook post on the Blue City: Indigo to Jodhpur!   https://www.facebook.com/pages/Travel-Scope-India-Pvt-Ltd/456637484377809)

Meherangarh Fort, a UNESCO World Heritage Site, has evolved from being a stoic reminder of the heroes of Rajputana, to become a cultural axis on the world stage.

Come spring and the desert air fills with the sound of music at the Flamenco and Gypsy Music Festival that is held at Meherangarh. This music from across the world comes to find its roots in the deserts of the Thar and the cool air reverberates with rhythm and the haunting echoes of long ago.

Click here to see a video clip from past festivals:

RIFF – The Rajasthan International Folk Festival – is in its fifth year now and is a terrific showcase of the performing arts throughout the region. Held in October each year, it has created a platform for the artistes of the desert – and raised the bar for Jodhpur – the destination.

Live performances at Meherangarh Fort, Jodhpur

Click here to see a video clip from past festivals: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1Aj0J-IFkM4

Splendour in the sand…Jodhpur has risen on the world’s stage as the place for extravaganza. Whether it’s destination weddings, or couples who elope and ride off into the sunset, it’s a place that embraces the exaggeration of the spirit – a spirit of strength and resilience in the face of all adversity.

 Perhaps this is why polo is so popular here. Polo in Jodhpur is not for the faint-hearted. These are die-hard equestrians who are rough and tumble and it’s not unusual for a little blood to be shed into the sand – but it’s a spirit that comes from the heart, it’s about the way you play the game – not the end.

(connect with us on Facebook to visit our post on Polo!) 

But they’re born gentlemen in Jodhpur and the Rajputs like to dress well and the Jodhpur pants have become a staple in equine fashion. This is why its no surprise that one of India’s best known fashion icons – Raghuvendra Rathore, is a son of the city and chooses to base his atelier here.

And it’s worth dandying it up in Jodhpur for it’s a city where once the party begins – it doesn’t end. Whether its literally a feast fit for a king at the Mewar Hall at Umaid Bhawan Palace, or strawberries and champagne on the sand-dunes of the Thar, there’s always an opportunity to cut a fine figure here. Throw in a safa (a traditional turban) and some fine leather mojris (Rajasthani slippers) and you’re a prince among men! Hotels in Jodhpur take a fashionable turn too – from classic grandeur to cutting edge design.

Handmade Jootis (shoes) in Jodhpur

Raas Haveli – Jodhpur

But Jodhpur has depth that goes beyond the parties and the festivities and this ethos begins at the doorstep of Umaid Bhawan Palace. Conceived as a means of livelihood to a draught stricken region, Umaid Bhawan Palace stands the test of time. It’s eclectic sandstone exteriors makes it shimmer golden in the sun, while its

cavernous interiors are beautifully decorated with Art Deco murals by the artist Norbilsk, who came from Poland. Legend has it that the ship that carried the original furnishings for the interior of the palace sank – and everything had to be reordered to decorate it in its royal splendor.

Umaid Bhawan Palace, Jodhpur  

Art has its place in Jodhpur and we take you beyond the treasures of Umaid Bhawan Palace’s museum to offer up another completely different perspective – the art of the painted truck. Visit a workshop where trucks literally get dressed up and decked out to ply on Indian roads – this fast dying tradition is one of the most intriguing and complex forms of pop art in the context of modern India.

India’s roads are dotted with heaving vehicles and the concept of the vehicle itself is sacred to Hindu mythology, Every deity in the Hindu pantheon has one of his or her own. Whether it’s Ganesha’s mouse or Saraswati’s swan, the vehicle is a revered being and therefore our four-wheeled variety is uniquely decorated to celebrate going places!

The Rajputs of Jodhpur love to celebrate – and there’s no celebration feast that doesn’t include the local favourite – Laal Maas or Red Lamb, so called because it is marinated for days in a complex blend of spices before being slow-cooked beneath the earth for several hours, taking on a rosy hue. As you eat it, the meat is so tender, that it simply falls off the bone and melts onto your tongue.

If you’re looking for a reason to celebrate life, love, or simply to enjoy a moment in time – call us and we’ll take you to visit our Jodhpur on a journey deep beyond the pale.