It has been 6 years since Travel Scope has been promoting the Uthralikkavu Pooram Festival celebrated annually in the small town of Wadakancherry in Central Kerala. It’s a festival that is much smaller in scale compared to the other Poorams but being smaller and practically unknown makes it an intimate experience for our clients. The involvement of the maternal side of my family in organizing this trip adds special privileges to our guests who come from as far as USA, Australia, and Europe. Having missed the festival last year, I was eager to get back this year to be a part of the two-day spectacle.

We spent the first couple of days researching to introduce some new elements for touring options in Cochin and the great backwaters of Kerala, and to check out some hotels. We spent a couple of nights at the 8th Bastion Hotel in Fort Cochin. This is one of the latest additions to the CGH Earth creations in Kerala. It’s an affordable option in Fort Cochin with walking access to the main spots in the city such as the Chinese Nets, St. Francis Church, and the Maidan area. Rooms are comfortable with attached bathroom and shower, a small swimming pool is surrounded by an al-fresco dining area, and an air-conditioned restaurant serves all three meals. Hotel is yet to get a bar license, so at the moment there’s no alcohol service but this should be in place soon. Rooms are spread out on three floors from Ground to 3rd, with maximum rooms on 1st, 2nd and 3rd floors with diverse views. I would highly recommend this property for guests looking for an affordable option in Fort Cochin.

CGH has also restored and renovated two Bungalows very close to the 8th Bastion Hotel. Each of the bungalows is an independent unit with 3 bedrooms, living dining area, and a separate swimming pool. Each bungalow has a dedicated team looking after housekeeping, f&b, and general upkeep. Meals are cooked and served in the bungalow itself. Guests also have the option of cooking themselves. Ideal for families or small group of friends.

Most clients visiting Kerala to experience the backwaters do a routine cruise from Alleppey to Kumarakom or v/v. To say the least, this has resulted in overcrowding at the Alleppey boat jetty and the experience is further diluted when you see countless boats navigating on the same route. There is no real experience of cruising through the narrow canals to experience real life as most of the time the houseboat is navigating the large Vembanad Lake.

Therefore one of our missions was to cruise the backwaters to explore a new route for our guests and we did find a beautiful route where we saw all of three houseboats and the experience was real and authentic. We started the cruise from Pallaturuthy boat jetty and went all the way towards Thotapally and back. One important point to note here is that for this cruise our clients have to report to Pallaturuthy boat jetty by 11 AM so that the cruise can be completed in time and guests return back to Pallaturuthy boat jetty by 4.30 to 5 PM, and then drive back to the hotel. This cruise cannot start or end from a hotel in Kumarakom. Guests will have to drive to Pallaturuthy boat jetty from either Cochin or Kumarakom and again drive back from Pallaturuthy to Kumarakom or Cochin depending on the itinerary. The drive usually takes about 1 hour and 30 minutes one way, but it is definitely worth the experience that you get on the cruise.

For guests opting for an overnight on board, the houseboat will anchor at Thottapally and then drop them back at Pallaturuthy the next morning.

The route is very scenic and one can witness life on the backwaters. Stops include a short walk to see the Karumadi Kuttan Statue – a half cut statue of Buddha which is installed into a small chorten like structure. Something very unique to see in Kerala. Guests also visit a small Krishna temple where the flagpole of the main shrine is said to be shifting leftwards. The locals believe that it will stop in front of another small shrine, which is towards the left of the main shrine and that is the day a new golden flagpole will emerge in front of the main shrine.

For guests opting for an overnight we can organize a auto-rickshaw ride to visit the Krishna Temple at Ambalapuzha, known for its rice pudding as offering to Lord Krishna every day. The temple is located only 2.5 kms from this spot and we will provide auto-rickshaws for a road access. Travel Scope also can also organize exclusive cultural performances of Kathakali or Ottanthullal (stand-up comedy) on an overnight cruise.

I highly recommend this (the Pallaturuthy / Thottapally) route for all our clients seeking an authentic backwater experience.

Our next stop was Wadakancherry. We spent the next couple of days with our guests from USA and Australia who had specially come to witness the Uthralikkavu Pooram Festival at Wadakancherry. The eve of the festival saw the build up to the hectic activities that were to follow the next two days. The three villages of Wadakancherry, Kumaranallur, and Engakkad compete with each other in parading the best of elephants and displaying the noisiest of fireworks, and all this while drummers and trumpeters built the tempo while the crowds joined in to encourage them. And this time we had a unique guest who was conducting the philharmonic orchestra at Wadakancherry. If you don’t believe me, please see it for yourself on the video linked below. The uncles are always thankful to us for bringing people from across the world to witness a festival that’s unique to the Kerala culture.

January to April is the season for some of the most authentic festivals in Kerala. We have identified the following festivals that can be scheduled on a client’s itinerary for 2014 – 15. Pulikali (9th Sep 2014), Thripppnithura Poorathrayesha Festival (21 – 26 Nov 2014), Waddakancherry, Utralikkavu Pooram(24 Feb 2015), Arattupuzha Pooram (01 Apr 2015), Thrissur Pooram – Biggest of all Poorams (29 Apr 2015)

The Satpura National Park includes the highest, least explored peaks of central India and harbors a unique range of wildlife, flora and fauna that include species, some of which are only found in the Western Himalayas or the Western Ghats. With a rugged terrain consisting of sandstone peaks, narrow gorges, ravines and dense forests it has of the finest tiger habitats in India.
Material things have their place in our lives. We could enjoy a movie, have a great meal, purchase a new mobile phone or buy new pair of shoes. But with time technology, fashion, food, and everything else changes. The memories of all this lasts until we come across something new and better. But memories of journeys and the people connected with them last for a long time. Sometimes a lifetime, particularly if it relates to nature and wildlife. This has been my personal insight after the two days spent exploring the beautiful forests and wetlands of Satpura.
Visiting Satpura is a welcome break from the hurried jeep safaris in the more renowned parks where the sole focus is to look for a “Streak of Tigers”. At Satpura you have many OPTIONS to explore the jungles available to you. The option of doing a Jeep Safari, a Walking Safari, or a Canoe Ride on the backwaters of Denwa.

What makes Satpura Tiger Reserve so special? The fact that it’s a Tiger Reserve but we are not actually going there to see Tigers. The fact that it’s located on the edges of a very large water body which makes access to the park a bit different compared to the usual jeep transfers and the queues that await you at the entrance of some the more renowned Parks, where getting your identity checked could be like going through an immigration check at airports.
A quick cup of tea and we were off to the boat jetty on a short GYPSY ride. Gypsies are the 4X4 vehicles commonly used in India for wildlife explorations. Once we arrived at the boat jetty it took us all of five minutes to get our entry permit and before we boarded our motor boat for another short crossing to the entrance of the Park. At the Park entrance it took us only a couple minutes before we were seated in our jeeps and started off on our safari.

Our naturalist for the day was David Raju. David has spent his childhood catching frogs, climbing trees and feeding birds. He used to catch grasshoppers and put them in match boxes, and climb trees to feed chicks. He went on to finish a degree in English literature where his teachers taught him Shakespeare in Malayalam. Yes, ask him about all that and he will tell you in detail. But nature had different things in store for him as he trained to become a naturalist and found a job with an eco-lodge in Kerala, before he underwent rigorous training with a renowned organization. As the head naturalist at Forsyth’s Lodge, he now heads a team of two other young naturalists – Surya and Varun. There is a sense of camaraderie and it is amusing to see all the ribbing when one of them had a great day in the Park.
Its unfair to list what one can see in a Park because it could raise your expectations. Also, spotting wildlife in the jungle depends on the day. Sometimes the jungle is literally sleeping and at times it’s hyperactive. But our day at Satpura was abuzz with activity. A baby bear hugging the mama bear in a perfect BEAR HUG. If you are called a SLOTH, there is a reason. The mother and baby were in no mood to wake up.
Next was a crested serpent eagle sitting on a tree stump. We had a great spotters in David and our guide from the forest department. The next thing we saw was the MOTTLED WOOD OWL. As per David we were really lucky to see this bird, and not just one but three and all in one place. The icing was a “murder of Crows” chasing away one of them. It was fascinating and I couldn’t resist asking David to take us back to the same spot once again to see those owls.

While we saw a variety of birds and other animals, I am listing those that added to the thrill of being in the Satpura jungles. The next sighting though was from a distance but again something rare. This time it was a female leopard and her two cubs. But before we could get up close they had moved. However the alarm calls didn’t stop. This confirmed the presence of a male leopard very close though we did not sight him. As per David “he was a shy one who didn’t believe in the show business”. But the frantic alarm calls of the Langur (black faced monkey) and the Cheetal (spotted dear) continued. This was one of most fulfilling jungle safaris to date.
After brunch we headed back to the boat jetty, this time for an afternoon canoe ride on the backwaters of Denwa river. It was one of the most relaxing experiences. Relaxing for me as my friend Jhampan and a forest department guide were rowing the canoe, while the other canoe was being rowed by our naturalist David and another guide from the department. The third occupant in the other canoe was my daughter Mohini who was taking a break from school, with just a month left before she takes on her final examinations of grade 10 – an important milestone in a student’s life in India. It was a great way to unwind, with classes in the jungles learning about nature and wildlife from two experts – our Naturalist David and my friend Jhampan. This trip was a long time wish for me to travel with my friend Aniruddha Mukherjee (known to friends as Jhampan).
Jhampan is a conservationist and wildlife researcher who has undertaken several research projects, and explores the Indian jungles for his research work. He also shares his extensive knowledge and experience with groups of travellers that he escorts from time to time through India, especially to wildlife destinations.

Here is an idea for parents: bring your children to Satpura and starve them of CYBERWORLD, but feed them on SUMPTUOUS doses of nature, wildlife, and life in the jungles. This is education at its best. In her own words, Mohini said she loved Satpura so much because there was NO INTERNET. Now that’s transformation even if it was temporary because the moment the signals were back, both of us couldn’t take our eyes of the devices.
Forsyth’s Lodge is the perfect place to stay in Satpura and explore its jungles. Don’t expect the frills of star hotels. But I can assure you that the earthy comfortable accommodation, tasty food, and the living among simple folk will make you forget everything and immerse you in a world that is so different to what we are all used to.

Before I close, I must add that Central India is a treasure of monuments, sites, and some of the most beautiful jungles of India. These jungles are also home to a variety of trees and plants that have been documented by Pradip Kishan in his latest book – Jungle trees of Central India. He has also documented “the trees of Delhi”.

Some of the destinations to explore in Central India are Khajuraho, Orccha, Gwalior, Bhopal, Sanchi, Bhojpur, Indore, Mandu, Omkareshwar, and Maheshwar. The wildlife parks include Panna, Satpura, Kanha, Bandhavgarh, Pench, Tadoba. Travellers can also connect from Central India into Gujarat, or continue to the West to explore the cave paintings and Murals of Ajanta and the beautiful temples of Ellora.