“Travel brings power and love back to your life” – Rumi

While Western world civilizations from the Mayans to the Norse predict the end of the world in this century, our eastern roots urge us to look at every death as a rebirth, every misstep as a step in a new direction, every end as a new beginning.

In a year where the world precariously draws on hope as it crawls out of the vortex of recession, perhaps the lesson should be not to grasp those things that are without, but those things that are within.

 (Contact us today to learn more about our Mind, Body & Soul signature journeys in North and South India)

Pause – to imbibe the scent of the forest floor. 

Breathe – the fragrance of the frangipani in bloom. 

Savour the strength of the sesame oil as it soaks into the pores of your skin.

Caress the velvet that is the moss that grows in the crevices of the forest stream.

Listen to the rhythm of the whisper in the wind and the waves of the ocean’s symphony.

Draw on the energy of the bees that thrive at the highest peaks in the world.

We are only the choir in Nature’s opera on that stage we call the universe.

Drawing on our inner spirit, innovation, and imagination, rather than using fragile systems that have broken down and serve as crutches that cripple us further, calls for courage and strength.

When the true rishis and fakirs of the Himalayas meditate naked in the snow, they are in complete control of their mind, body and soul – drawing on their own breath, fat, and mental prowess for succor. When the harsh sun beats down upon the ravines of the Chambal ravine, it is the same inner tranquility that keeps their body nourished and cool.

When the sun seeps in through your eyelids on a cool morning in Gokarna as you raise your head in your first surya namaskar of the day, or dries the dew that clings to your brow as you watch the Painted Storks on the gorges of the Ken River in Panna.

When the lone moan of the Tibetan horn penetrates your consciousness, and the hot stones in the Bhutanese bath warm your soul. When the warmth of the waves licks your toes on the shores of Sri Lanka and the brilliant plumage of the kingfisher as it takes its maiden dive of the day into the lake at Ashtamudi opens your eyes to the glory of every living thing around us.

We are borne from nature. And the figments of our material lives lose meaning when one awakens to the awareness that all life neutralizes to carbon atoms and not much else. Awakening the awareness within us that opportunity lies at every fork in the road. Recognizing its strength and leveraging it is the essence of life.

While Western world civilizations from the Mayans to the Norse predict the end of the world in this century, our eastern roots urge us to look at every death as a rebirth, every misstep as a step in a new direction, every end as a new beginning. 

In a year where the world precariously draws on hope as it crawls out of the vortex of recession, perhaps the lesson should be not to grasp those things that are without, but those things that are within.

Pause – to imbibe the scent of the forest floor. [image: forest walks in Corbett]

Breathe – the fragrance of the frangipani in bloom. [image: frangipani in spa bowl]

Savour the strength of the sesame oil as it soaks into the pores of your skin.

[image: ayurvedic massage]

Caress the velvet that is the moss that grows in the crevices of the mountain stream.

[image: Himalayan walks]

Listen to the rhythm of the whisper in the wind and the waves of the ocean’s symphony.

[image: Nirmaaya kovalam beach scene]

Draw on the energy of the bees that thrive at the highest peaks in the world.

            [image: mountains]

We are only the choir in Nature’s opera on that stage we call the universe.

Drawing on our inner spirit, innovation, and imagination, rather than using fragile systems that have broken down and serve as crutches that cripple us further, calls for courage and strength.

When the true rishis and fakirs of the Himalayas meditate naked in the snow, they are in complete control of their mind, body and soul – drawing on their own breath, fat, and mental prowess for succor. When the harsh sun beats down upon the ravines of the Chambal ravine, it is the same inner tranquility that keeps their body nourished and cool.

[image: sadhus meditating in the caves near bateshwar]

When the sun seeps in through your eyelids on a cool morning in Risihikish as you raise your head in your first surya namaskar of the day, or dries the dew that clings to your brow as you watch the Brahmini Kite soaring over the gorges of the Ken River in Panna.

[image: Panna & ananda}

When the lone moan of the Tibetan horn penetrates your consciousness, and the hot stones in the Bhutanese bath warm your soul. When the warmth of the waves licks your toes on the shores of Sri Lanka and the brilliant plumage of the kingfisher as it takes its maiden dive of the day into the lake at Ashtamudi opens your eyes to the glory of every living thing around us.

[image: Ladakh and Sri Lanka]

We are borne from nature. And the figments of our material lives lose meaning when one awakens to the awareness that all life neutralizes to carbon atoms and not much else. Awakening the awareness within us that opportunity lies at every fork in the road. Recognizing its strength and leveraging it is the essence of life.

Let your life lightly dance on the edges of Time like dew on the tip of a leaf.

– Rabindranath Tagore

The Girls from Guwhati…

One of the first things I learnt from our hosts in Guwahati (the capital of Assam) was the words Lahi Lahi, which signifies a slow pace of life. Guwahati was our gateway to the North East of India and Papori, a native of Assam, and her sister became not only our hosts but baptized us in the ways of the North East.

Papori’s sister fed us a sumptuous meal of local delicacies at her guest house, Shantiniketan, in an upscale neighborhood of Guwahati, and we stuffed our faces while the two sisters regaled us with stories of their childhood in Guwahati.

We then moved on to Prabhakar House, home of the gracious and charming Sheila Bora, which she has lovingly converted into a beautiful home-stay. A former teacher of tourism at the university in Guwahati, Sheila’s home is a reflection of her impeccable taste and has the intimate touch of a meticulous home owner who treats every visitor as her personal guest.

Prabhakar House, Guwhati, Assam

Sheila is a historian and an expert on the history and culture of the states of North Eastern India and has written a couple of books. She is passionate about it and shares her experiences and knowledge of the region with her guests over a cup of tea or an evening drink.

 The Nine Celestials…

We ascended the steps to the Navagraha Temple in Guwahati and entered a sanctum that was utterly surreal. Nine Shiva Lingams emerge from the ground in a natural formation – each one representing a planet. The sanctum is high on energy and the sounds resonating out of the chanting were other worldly

Navgraha Temple, Guwhati, Assam

Call of the Wild…

As we traveled from Guwahati towards Kaziranga National Park, we broke journey briefly to visit the Pobitora wildlife sanctuary. Rhinos, wild buffaloes, wild boars, several species of butterfly, and around 350 species consisting of both endemic and migratory birds roam freely in this wetland wilderness, which sports the highest density of One-Horned Indian Rhinos today. In season, the silk cotton and cleome bursts into bloom and colours the tree-line a dusty rose hue.

A One Horned Rhino peers out at us through the elephant grass in Kaziranga National Park, Assam

Kaziranga is one of the most beautiful wildlife parks that I have visited. The safari takes you through divers landscapes of the Park that comprises of open grasslands with numerous water bodies, thick woodlands and high grasslands. 

The main attraction is the Single Horned Rhino which has been brought back from extinction. Today this mammal is thriving at Kaziranga with about 2300 Rhinos in an area of 1000 Sq Km. The Big Five of Kaziranga include the Rhino, Elephants, Tiger, Wild Buffalo and The Swamp Deer. We spotted 4 out of 5 on our only drive, besides numerous varieties of birds and otters. The core area of Kaziranga’s forests has been increased to 1002 Sq. Km after the recent change in regulations brought about by the Supreme Court.

The Western Range and Central range each have a sizeable population of Kaziranga’s big five as well as several other species of deer, birds, otters and Chital Fish. The Eastern range has fewer mammals but is excellent for birding and has stunning vistas over the Brahmaputra River. The Far Western range is a new range that has been opened and is great to see Hoollock Gibbons, Capped Langur, Gangetic Dolphins, Malayan Giant Squirrels and Hornbills.

Our naturalist Babloo had an extensive knowledge of Kaziranga’s wildlife and was a keen bird spotter – a tremendous asset to have with us on our drive. The Diphlu River Lodge is the best place to stay in Kaziranga. The cottages are built on stilts using locally sourced material. All the rooms are set around a paddy cultivation within the property.

Sidewinding with the Dolphins…

Enroute from Kaziranga to Balipara one has the option of doing a ferry cruise on the Brahmaputra to view Gangetic Dolphins along with a local “boatman’s lunch” cooked by the boatmen on a small island in the river.

The South Asian river dolphin has the long, pointed nose characteristic of all river dolphins. Its teeth are visible in both the upper and lower jaws even when the mouth is closed. They are unique among cetaceans in that they swim on their sides. These dolphins are practically blind and navigate primarily using echolocation.

A River of Blood…

Tezpur has an interesting story connected with it’s name. It was called Sonitpur before a battle ensued between Lord Shiva and Lord Krishna. It’s a mythological story that involves the Grand Nephew of Lord Krishna Aniruddha and the daughter of the King of Sonitpur, Vanraja. The daughter wanted to marry Krishna’s grand nephew, Aniruddha but the father refused and sought the help of Lord Shiva to wage a battle against Lord Krishna. And the blood that was shed in the battle gave the town its name, TEZPUR, as TEZ in Assamese means blood.

Living The Plantation Life…

We checked in at the Wild Mahasheer, which is a collection of Managers Bungalows on the Balipara Division of the Addaparie Tea Estates. Meals are served in the main restaurant called First Flush built like a glass house. It has a wonderful display of tea tasting paraphernalia and the different variety of tea grown in the Balipara estate.The accommodations a very comfortable with old world décor and furniturel. Each bungalow has a living area and bed rooms with attached facilities. A sit out and a garden complete the experience of staying in a British Raj estate bungalow.

The tea gardens of the Addaparie Tea Estate, Beliappa, Assam

Wild Mahaseer is a destination unto itself and from here, one can indulge in a range of activities that make memories of a lifetime. Whether its heading to afternoon tea in the middle of a tea-estate on elephant back, or river-rafting on the Jia Bhoroli with a visit to Nameri National Park, a cooking session with the chefs, or a stroll through some of the Mishing tribal villages located close by.

On the ground in Ziro…

Most of the drive is through wild banana and bamboo forest, with occasional pine trees when one is at a height. The drive is through peaks and valleys, some of which are home to beautiful groves of orange trees.

An Apatani Tribal Elder, Ziro, Arunachal Pradesh

We started our day in Ziro with a visit to the Apatani village. We met our guide Mischi enroute, who is a member of the tribe himself. The Apatani’s pray to Doni Polo which means Sun and Moon. Their homes are made entirely out of Bamboo. Each family owns a Bamboo plantation. Each village has a clan head who settles small disputes. The Shamans conduct elaborate rituals and animal sacrifice seems an integral part of their lives, be treating a sick person, performing a wedding or celebrating a festival. Right from chickens, to pigs, to monkeys, dogs or the mithun cows, the sacrifice it all. Just hearing all this from our guide gave me goose pimples. I wonder how they must be living it. But that’s what life is about in these tribes. They are very particular about all these rituals and believe that perils will fall on anyone who does not follow them. The people of Arunachal Pradesh have migrated from different parts of North Eastern states and some other countries such as Nepal, Bhutan, Myanmar and further east such as Mongolia and China. They were basically a race of hunter-gatherers as nothing much could be cultivated in this land and hence lived out of what was available in the forests. These villages are undergoing a transition period where the old homes are now being re-built in the same style with modern touches.

Our last spot for the day was the tall Shiva Lingam. I believe it’s the world’s largest lingam. It’s a located at a short drive from the town at an amazingly beautiful spot. It’s a natural formation of the Shiva Lingam with an Elephant head signifying Lord Ganesha and a Nandi formation on either side. We ended the day spending an hour with our guide Mischi in his uncle’s house in typical Apatani tradition sitting around a fire and chatting while the family and mischi drank rice beer.

Black Apong and in the Blue Yonder of Passighat…

Yane Dai is an old timer in the travel business who has pioneered adventure travel in Arunachal. Her husband (a look alike of Danny Denzongpa) was a bureaucrat in the Arunachal State government. A well read and knowledgeable person who can interact well with guests , he is a mine of information on the North East history and culture. Dinner with Dai and her husband (cooked by their son Neno) was a great experience. We learned quite a bit about North East and particularly Arunachal tribes etc. But the best part was the Black Apong. This is a local liquor that that is made of fermented rice processed with smoke and ash. It was delicious and tasted like vintage white wine. With that they served boiled beans marinated in chilly and ginger sauce. It was simply superb.

We started the next day with a simple breakfast and proceeded with Nino and his brother on a three kilometer hike across the Siang River to visit the villages of the Adi Tribe. This was one of the best moments on this trip. A very challenging experience as it involves hiking through some challenging terrain. The first part was all downhill and then crossing the bamboo bridge on the Siang, which is certainly a thrilling experience. The actual trek starts once we cross the bridge, with beautiful views of the river and the mountains on one side and wilderness on the other.

Braised in Bamboo…

Today we had an organic tribal cuisine lunch. A rewarding experience after all that walking and hiking. The meal was entirely cooked using Bamboo tubes and indigenous herbs and spices which made it delicious. The dishes included sticky rice, dry banana flower, lentils cooked with yam, boiled spinach with garlic and a pork dish specially cooked for the meat eaters. The meal would have been incomplete without the home-made Apong.

Picnic lunch cooked in Bamboo tubes

Striking Black Gold in Digboi…

We then drove upto DIGBOI, the first oil township of India. This is where oil was first explored and found by the British in 1889. Indian Oil established a museum at Digboi to commemorate 100 years of India’s Oil Heritage at Digboi. This is one of the most interesting museums to visit and learn about the explorations by the British and the establishment of the Burma Oil Company in the late 19^th Century.

Digboi also played an important role for Allied forces during the 2^nd world war as they built bunkers to save the Allies from air raids conducted by the Japanese. There’s also a war memorial dedicated to soldiers who laid down their lives during the war.

Not far from Digboi is the Stillwell road that was built during the 2^nd world war to connect India with China through Ledo in Arunachal Pradesh, as the Japanese had blocked the Burma route. The road is named after General Joseph Stillwell who was then the commander of the Allied forces in the area.

Birding with Benu da…

Dibru Soikhowa is the story of one man’s efforts to protect and promote this riverine Island which is home to some of the rare species of birds such as spotbills, bar headed geese, ruddy shell ducks, greater cormorants, mallards, common teals etc.

Benu Da as he is fondly called by his people, dedicated his life to conservation efforts in the area which brought nature lovers from different parts of the country and this world to this place. Like many conservationists Benu also has a past with poaching but soon realized that he rather spent his time conserving the area. Initially he faced a lot of resistance from the system and the people but slowly overcame all that to put this place on the wildlife tourism map. Excursions are done using a boat to cruise around the park and get off the boat for a walk inside to see grassland birds as well as a wide variety of orchids.

Orchids in the wild

You can leave your hat on…

We spotted a Nishi tribal on the way and stopped to take pictures. Apart from his headgear which was typically Nishi, the rest of his attire was absolutely modern. Infact he was looking great in his jacket and trousers and his traditional headgear, gazing at his cell phone, while I was photographing him. I have been wanting to sport a headgear like that ever since. Hope I find it at Hornbill Festival.

The driving experience in Assam is very pleasant during this time of the year, as the countryside is beautiful. The paddy is ready for harvest and we see farmers and the women folk working on the fields. The entire stretch of drive from North Lakhimpur to Passighat consists of wetlands on one side and paddy fields on the other. We also see people fishing in waist deep waters. Their techniques are fascinating to observe.

Coming home after a day in the fields, Majuli Island, Assam

The Ahom Ancients of Assam…

Sibsagar was the capital city of the Ahom rulers of Assam, and while much of the Ahom heritage has faded into oblivion, we are lucky to find a local enthusiast who tells us about this ancient reign. Our history teacher for the day, Anant, a news reporter for a local channel called Parag TV. He is an enthusiast who has a keen interest in the history of Sibsagar. A self-taught and self-styled story-teller, he recounts the history of Sibsagar’s history, architecture and heritage with immense pride.

Ahom Architecture 

Anant recounts several stories from local lore and one that impressed me was about the Dola Muslim community who are invited to play drums at the Devi temple during Durga Puja. In appreciation and gratitude of their participation they are offered a part of the sacrificial goat. This tradition had briefly been stopped due to Hindu / Muslim communal issues until it was reinstated recently.

Another interesting tale was about the Joy Dol which was our next stop. The Joy Dol was built in the memory of Joymati the wife of Gadhadhar Singha one of the Ahom rulers.

We then drove to a Shatra a Vaishnavite monastery. This one was special as it is also the residence and work place of artists who make masks that are used in the dance performances based on stories from Indian mythology.

The Vaishnavite Community, Majuli Island, Assam

These monasteries also house the NAM GHOR. The Nam Ghor’s are places of spiritual gathering where there is no idol worship like in temples. Instead they place the Bhagwat Gita in the sanctum and people sit in a circle and chant versus from the Gita. A kind of community prayer.

Majuli Masquerade…

We took a ferry from Neemghat on the mainland to Majuli Island, the largest river island in the Brahmaputra, and home to a fascinating community of Vaishnavites. We disembarked our ferry and set out for the Vaishnavite Satra. Majuli is the largest river island measuring approximately 1200 Sq Km. However due to a unstemmed erosion, the island has shrunk to approximately 890 Sq Km. It’s a great place for birders and ideal for walking and bicycling activities besides exploring the neo-vaishnavite culture of this island. One of the best times to visit Majuli is during the Raas festival that is held during the full moon after Diwali when the Raas Leela is performed throughout the island.

At this Satra, we saw artists creating idols for Gayan Bayan which is a live art form in which the monks perform using cymbals and drums, which evolves into a traditional form of musical performance art, practiced within the Vaishnavite community in Assam.

We also meet the master artist who demonstrated the art of making masks as well as using them in the dance form of Bhauna and spiritual Raas performances. It reminded me of Kathakali in Kerala, except that in Bhauna they use face make up and masks to represent characters from Indian mythology.

Over the years they have also improved on the model of these masks to give a real touch while enacting scenes.

Masked dancers, Majuli Island, Assam

Majuli also has a big population of the people of missing tribes who eke out their sustenance along the banks of the river. Their homes are typically tribal in design and made of bamboo. This is one of the best examples of sustainable living.

“We gonna run run run
To the cities of the future
Take what we can and bring it back home
So take me down to the cities of the future
Everybody’s happy and I feel at home”

– Lyrics: Cities of the Future – Infected Mushroom

One only has to touch down in India at any major gateway (and some not so major ones) to know that things have taken a step up since the last century. India’s new airports are no longer just functional points of entry where you can get your passport stamped – but at the same time are art galleries, shopping arcades, gourmet dining outlets, and recreation zones. [Click here: http://www.csia.in/atcsia/International-T2.aspx to take a look at latest addition on the airport landscape – the long awaited T2 in Mumbai]

            And it doesn’t stop when you leave the airport. Getting around has just got easier. Ubers rub bumpers with tuk-tuks, and metros and monorails compete with the Local. 

Riding the local train in Mumbai
India’s teeming metro cities are rapidly finding ways to out-maneuver their own chaos. We’re sure that the original scribe of the Mahabharata (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Mahabharata) never imagined that Guru Dronacharya (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Drona) would have a metro station named in his honour – much less that it would be accessible at the touch of a finger on the free Delhi Metro app.[http://www.delhimetrorail.com/mobile-app.aspx] 

India is on the move and sustainability is the direction an increasing number of citizens are trying to take (including our new government!) – bicycles (check out our urban bike rides post on facebook), farm to table (check out our farm to table experiences on facebook), organic markets and preserving our neighborhoods are only some of the initiatives that have protagonists across the country.

Hauz Khas Village, New Delhi
Even as the number of automobiles on India’s roads continues to rise, in many cities we’re going back to the bicycle. While the ubiquitous pedal-pusher never really left the Indian road-scape, its re-emergence as a cool new alternative to get around India’s cities (not to mention, the latest way to get your adrenaline rush) is making waves as bicycle clubs are rapidly burgeoning in major cities across the country. In this respect, Gurgaon in the National Capital Region, has eclipsed its counterparts, by declaring some of its roads closed to motor vehicles on Rahgiri days (every Sunday) to encourage bicyclists and pedestrians to step out and engage in the community. [http://raahgiriday.com/)

 On another note, Mumbai’s BNHS (link to BNHS) valiantly upholds a strong suit for the city’s avian population with its bird walks, and in Hyderabad, one can explore the city’s heritage from a unique perspective – literally – from the top of a boulder, as one walks through these mammoth rocks to uncover the geological history of the city.

Bouldering in Hyderabad
The North Eastern influx into Delhi is a small example of a growing subculture that has yielded funky results – from B&Bs like the new Nagaland inspired Naga Ki (https://www.facebook.com/pages/Naga-Ki/277883465748733?ref=page_internal&sk=likes) , to fine dining eateries like Yeti, and musical acts from Guwhati and Shillong. Fusion has taken on a whole new avatar with restaurants like Indian Accent (http://www.indianaccent.com/restaurant.php). As the trend moves towards eating healthy – breakfast has become the new dinner (Check out our facebook post on breakfast in Bombay!).

Hotels have got on the bandwagon too and IPOD docs, wireless keyboards, adapter-less plug points, and Jeeves-like TVs are now de rigeur even in hotels that ooze classic grandeur and charm – it’s personal shopping, supreme spa experiences, and intimate niches of exoticism that compete neck to neck to create oases of customized tranquility.

But what we love most is the eclectic new communities that have sprung out of the womb of our cultural heritage and whether it’s Black Theater Dinners in Hyderabad (http://www.dialogueinthedarkindia.com/), an ode to the commode at Gurgaon’s quirky Museum of Toilets (check out our destination driven post on Gurgaon on Facebook), or art on the move at Gurgaon’s Transport Anti-Museum. There’s new inspiration in the written word and Literature Festivals in Jaipur, Mumbai and Hyderabad (http://jaipurliteraturefestival.org/) have recently found international acclaim. The performing arts are alive and well – and Bangalore, with its rich heritage of Carnatic music (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Carnatic_music) is home to some of India’s newest and most interesting debuts on the music scene. But Carnatic music also comes into its own in Chennai every December with a city festival that celebrates the performing arts across venues. Contemporary Indian art continues to flourish at the Cholamandal Artist’s Village in Chennai.

Architecture always leaves its stamp on a city from era to era and nowhere is this more apparent than in Bangalore. From the wooden palaces of the Wodeyars, the delicate eaves of the Colonials, the bold designs of the Art Decos, and the glass, chrome and steel sleekness of today, Bangalore is a dichotomy of natural greenery and concrete jungle. Nowhere is the juxtaposition of layers of old and new, mainstream and alternative, jostling side by side for space, more pronounced than in India’s tech-heir apparent for the City of the Future.

Bangalore International Convention Center
As India’s cities transform exponentially in an eternal butterfly motif, we invite you to travel with us and experience the evolution first hand.

Jodhpur:

Beyond the pale in the Blue City

The whole experience was wonderful, stimulating and very exciting! Travel Scope did a great job in making all the arrangements and we would definitely recommend this trip to our friends!

Nancy Schapiro and Gerald Portnoy

There is a stark strength to Jodhpur. The city stands as the last frontier – coexisting with the sand-dunes of the Thar Desert.

A walk through the marketplace, Jodhpur

Perhaps it’s the muscle of Meherangarh Fort which towers protectively over the skyline. Or the sprawling handsomeness of Umaid Bhawan Palace, whose dome is a landmark for miles around.

There is wildness here – in the black buck that roam the scrubby forests, in the Bishnoi tribes who are scattered around the city, in the breeze – warm by day, but chilly at night – which reminds you that this city is your final bastion against the desert’s seductive mirage. (Don’t miss our Running Wild post on Instagram!)

Most people spend just a couple of days here – or simply pass through overnight – without exploring beyond the pale, but at Travel Scope we know that there’s so much more that lies within the walls of in the blue city and the people behind them.

Jodhpur’s old city is tinted a faint indigo and hence its name – The Blue City. There are many beliefs propounded for the coloring of the walls. Some say it is to ward off the harsh desert sun and keep the limestone walls just that much cooler. Others say it was to demarcate the homes of the Brahmins who lived here centuries ago, and the tradition has simply continued. We believe that it could just be that a little colour helps to lighten up everyone’s life!

The Blue City, Jodhpur

(Click here for our Facebook post on the Blue City: Indigo to Jodhpur!   https://www.facebook.com/pages/Travel-Scope-India-Pvt-Ltd/456637484377809)

Meherangarh Fort, a UNESCO World Heritage Site, has evolved from being a stoic reminder of the heroes of Rajputana, to become a cultural axis on the world stage.

Come spring and the desert air fills with the sound of music at the Flamenco and Gypsy Music Festival that is held at Meherangarh. This music from across the world comes to find its roots in the deserts of the Thar and the cool air reverberates with rhythm and the haunting echoes of long ago.

Click here to see a video clip from past festivals:

RIFF – The Rajasthan International Folk Festival – is in its fifth year now and is a terrific showcase of the performing arts throughout the region. Held in October each year, it has created a platform for the artistes of the desert – and raised the bar for Jodhpur – the destination.

Live performances at Meherangarh Fort, Jodhpur

Click here to see a video clip from past festivals: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1Aj0J-IFkM4

Splendour in the sand…Jodhpur has risen on the world’s stage as the place for extravaganza. Whether it’s destination weddings, or couples who elope and ride off into the sunset, it’s a place that embraces the exaggeration of the spirit – a spirit of strength and resilience in the face of all adversity.

 Perhaps this is why polo is so popular here. Polo in Jodhpur is not for the faint-hearted. These are die-hard equestrians who are rough and tumble and it’s not unusual for a little blood to be shed into the sand – but it’s a spirit that comes from the heart, it’s about the way you play the game – not the end.

(connect with us on Facebook to visit our post on Polo!) 

But they’re born gentlemen in Jodhpur and the Rajputs like to dress well and the Jodhpur pants have become a staple in equine fashion. This is why its no surprise that one of India’s best known fashion icons – Raghuvendra Rathore, is a son of the city and chooses to base his atelier here.

And it’s worth dandying it up in Jodhpur for it’s a city where once the party begins – it doesn’t end. Whether its literally a feast fit for a king at the Mewar Hall at Umaid Bhawan Palace, or strawberries and champagne on the sand-dunes of the Thar, there’s always an opportunity to cut a fine figure here. Throw in a safa (a traditional turban) and some fine leather mojris (Rajasthani slippers) and you’re a prince among men! Hotels in Jodhpur take a fashionable turn too – from classic grandeur to cutting edge design.

Handmade Jootis (shoes) in Jodhpur

Raas Haveli – Jodhpur

But Jodhpur has depth that goes beyond the parties and the festivities and this ethos begins at the doorstep of Umaid Bhawan Palace. Conceived as a means of livelihood to a draught stricken region, Umaid Bhawan Palace stands the test of time. It’s eclectic sandstone exteriors makes it shimmer golden in the sun, while its

cavernous interiors are beautifully decorated with Art Deco murals by the artist Norbilsk, who came from Poland. Legend has it that the ship that carried the original furnishings for the interior of the palace sank – and everything had to be reordered to decorate it in its royal splendor.

Umaid Bhawan Palace, Jodhpur  

Art has its place in Jodhpur and we take you beyond the treasures of Umaid Bhawan Palace’s museum to offer up another completely different perspective – the art of the painted truck. Visit a workshop where trucks literally get dressed up and decked out to ply on Indian roads – this fast dying tradition is one of the most intriguing and complex forms of pop art in the context of modern India.

India’s roads are dotted with heaving vehicles and the concept of the vehicle itself is sacred to Hindu mythology, Every deity in the Hindu pantheon has one of his or her own. Whether it’s Ganesha’s mouse or Saraswati’s swan, the vehicle is a revered being and therefore our four-wheeled variety is uniquely decorated to celebrate going places!

The Rajputs of Jodhpur love to celebrate – and there’s no celebration feast that doesn’t include the local favourite – Laal Maas or Red Lamb, so called because it is marinated for days in a complex blend of spices before being slow-cooked beneath the earth for several hours, taking on a rosy hue. As you eat it, the meat is so tender, that it simply falls off the bone and melts onto your tongue.

If you’re looking for a reason to celebrate life, love, or simply to enjoy a moment in time – call us and we’ll take you to visit our Jodhpur on a journey deep beyond the pale.

Initiation to yoga

The word ‘Yoga’ is derived from ‘Yuj’ which simply means to unify or to join. Hence yoga is defined as ‘union’ i.e. union of the individual self with the cosmic self. In more comprehensive terms yoga denotes the techniques that lead to harmony between the inner self and its external environment, between thought and action, between the world and individual.

For the diligent follower, Yoga offers simple tools that allows the seeker to attain and maintain a healthy body and when internalized also a healthy mind and a healthy attitude. Besides holistic health, yoga also facilitates the blossoming of the creative potential in the aspirant. When a keen seeker is searching for the right means to achieve his life’s calling, yoga becomes the light that guides his path and helps him attain the chosen goal.

Yoga in India, with an Indian exponent that too from a distinguished school of yoga would be a coveted inclusion into programs for many travelers to India. Travel Scope offers personalized Yoga sessions for interested travelers with Alka Tyagi who has trained at the renowned Bihar School of Yoga in Munger and has been teaching Yoga for close to nine years. She has in collaboration with Travel Scope organized Yoga sessions and workshops for small groups and individual travelers. Formerly the Head of Yoga department at Ananda in the Himalayas, a well-known destination spa near Rishikesh, Alka has taught Yoga for many of Ananda’s distinguished guests. She has also been featured in YOGA shows for the television channel NDTV Good Times. Alka is a professor of English Literature at Delhi University, a brilliant poetess and a spiritual seeker.

Yoga with Alka is an experience in itself as she gently guides you through various aspects of the practice including breathing, postures and the philosophy. Very interactive and conservational , Alka takes into consideration the age, agility and health conditions of her group . Her quiet voice and inherent wisdom has encouraged
many to take up Yoga as a life time habit, while senior practitioners find her a great source of knowledge about Yoga, Hinduism and Indian culture.

Olympus digital camera

Available only on prior booking “Yoga with Alka” is best organized in the morning at 6.30 Am followed by a light home cooked breakfast or in the late afternoon around 3 Pm followed by high tea. There are several venues that are chosen depending on the season and comfort of the participants. Alka’s home in the South Delhi suburb of Nizamuddin is often the venue for her sessions while one of the Delhi’s many gardens can also be used on prior arrangement.

The Bihar School of Yoga, Munger :
Munger in Bihar has a special place in the Yoga map of India. Many of the well versed practitioners and devoted teachers are from the Bihar school of Yoga which was founded in 1964 by Sri Swami Satyananda Saraswati to impart yogic training to all aspirants. The techniques that have been developed in this school are a blend of several ideologies that work towards personal development based on traditional vedantic, tantric and yogic teachings along with modern physical and mental health sciences. This holistic approach is what makes this brand of Yoga from Munger popular as it is in tandem with modern day challenges. Bihar School of Yoga also guides yoga projects and medical research in association with
prestigious Medical organizations, educational institutions and large corporations helping to spread this age-old Indian philosophy far and wide.

Moments of Epiphany: Bombay/ Mumbai – The City of Dreams

Mumbai skyline

Each destination was interesting and exciting – something new to experience! From outstanding services and attention to detail, our itinerary was perfect. The transfer services and airport representatives were greatly helpful, as were the calls from Praveen. Harsh took us to areas of Mumbai unseen by most. His knowledge and enthusiasm, his warmth are outstanding! We can’t wait to plan our next trip and are glad to be working with Travel Scope.

Herbert and Ellen Mayer

As a tribute to the recent award won by Travel Scope from the Taj Hotels in support of the Taj Grand Palaces, we are dedicating this month’s blog to Mumbai – a city close to the Travel Scope team’s heart and home to the flagship of the Taj Group, The Taj Mahal Palace  (a hotel close to our hearts too). 

Where dreams are made and broken, and the backyards of mansions are slums. Where the rich and poor walk shoulder to shoulder, and a colourful history collides head-on with a kaleidoscopic future. Where the wadis of yesterday are the condos of tomorrow and glass and steel and chrome rub cheeks with Art Deco, Indo Saracenic, and Gothic. Where the ticker-tape is the zip-line through the concrete jungle, and the rise and fall of the stock market marks its pulse. Where the box-office booms and busts and the harbor fills with ships from every port.

Mumbai Local Train

Twenty million people (and counting) walking the streets in rhythm.

The singular pace of sticky molasses on the surface belies the quick-sand beneath.  Bom Baia, Bombay, Mumbai… she’s not the mother of all metropolises for nothing.

It’s 5 AM and you find yourself on a brisk walk with a cool Arabian Sea breeze in your face and the first rays of dawn lighting up the city. And suddenly the quiet of the morning breaks into a raucous cacophony as you enter Sassoon Docks and watch the first catch of the day being brought in.

This is the core of  Koli culture, the original inhabitants of this island city whose patron saint, Mumba Devi, gives Mumbai its name. Luminous gold earrings glint in the morning sun as the Koli women haul in the first catch of the day, and these women of this community who are the backbone of the fishing industry. With all nine yards of their Maharashtrian sarees tucked firmly between their legs like a pair of shorts, they haul the fish off the boats in assembly line fashion and take it to market.

A Fish Auction at sasoon Docks

Sassoon Dock was built and continues to bear the name of David Sassoon, a Baghdadi Jewish immigrant who gave much back the community of the city where he made his fortune. One of many who came to the City of Dreams and made it.

Sassoon Docks Copy

Five hundred years ago, these were seven islands, and the Koli tribe were their only inhabitants. Then the sea-faring Portuguese came and found it a good place to dock their ships, and brought Jesus to save the fishing community. And so today, we still have a distinct Portuguese community, a Portuguese church, a marked Portuguese influence throughout our seven islands, and call our bread pao.

When the Portuguese Empire decided that marrying into their rivals, the British Royal family, might make a smoother transition in the subcontinent, it wasn’t Catherine’s great beauty  (or lack of it) nor her grace that convinced Charles II to marry her – but the untapped economic opportunity that the seven islands of the Bom Baia (The Good Bay) afforded the British East India Company. And so Bombay (Bom Baia  – anglicized) was born.

The Gateway of India was built in 1921 at Apollo Bunder to welcome Charles V and Queen Mary on their maiden voyage to the Jewel of the British Empire.

Gateway of India

But up to 1900, no Indians were allowed into the portals of British hotels, so a Parsi industrialist named Jamshetji Tata, mulled over the idea of building a hotel where all were welcome. (Visit our Unwind/Bedding Down Section on our facebook page to learn more about this iconic hotel)

Mumbai Taj

As the city awakes, stroll past the graceful Victorian buildings, the old world Town Hall, and Victoria Terminus, which disgorges humanity through its doors every hour as millions of people commute to South Mumbai. If you’re early enough you will see the first round of the Mumbai Samachar and Times of India newspapers being distributed.

Newspaper Sorting Copy 

Head to the hub of the city – it’s markets. The area is named Crawford Market, for the bustling fruit and vegetable wholesale bazaar that bears its name, but we take you a step further to the Mangaldas Cloth Market. Dive into the little lanes where yards of gorgeous weaves and beautiful yarns sit in colourful stacks. From cottons to silks and tye-dye to paisley, scarves, stoles, sarees and borders – ladies, bring your bags.

Greens Market Copy 

Take a seat on the cotton mattress in one of the little stores as the shop-keeper skillfully drapes the fabrics over you and convinces you to buy much more than you really should with his smooth patter.

Mumbai came into being with the textile boom of the twenties and the mills became the back-bone of Bombay. As redevelopment sweeps the city, it’s face changes at lightening speed as new neighborhoods open up to the endless thirst for real-estate.

Step inside one of these erstwhile mills in the central part of the city and discover edgy outlets for cutting-edge cuisine, avant garde art, swanky shopping, high fashion and design, music studios and yes, even Mumbai’s first micro-brewery. Food is serious business in Mumbai and gastronomists are often amazed and delighted by the range of tastes that cross your palette. (Visit our Food Bytes section to learn more).

Dosa Bus 

Corn on the cob Mumbai 

As you step out of the chaos of Bhendi Bazaar and onto the side-street that is popularly known as Mutton Street, you will suddenly enter an area of benevolent calm and soft-spoken shop keepers will smile beguilingly as you roam through the lane filled with tiny shop windows selling antiques, vintage reproductions and simply the unusual – from tiny steam irons used in the old days by gentlemen to iron out the wrinkles after they’d worn their suits, to caricatures of Air India’s iconic Maharaja mascot, and brocade and embroidered borders which have survived the disintegration of the saree to which they once belonged, and vintage Bollywood film posters.

Bollywood, the world’s largest film industry by the sheer volume of films produced, is the elusive pot of gold at the end of the rainbow for many star-stricken aspirants, day-dreamers, and artistes. While in Chor Bazaar, step inside one of the little shops that is home to vintage Bollywood memorabilia and be entertained by these gentlemen for whom film is a passion. (Click here for a YouTube Snippet on one of these passionate collectors – https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=awdo-cIXgi8)

To know is to do, and at Travel Scope, we believe that you need to live it to believe it – so we let you shake a leg and let your hair down by teaching you how to dance with our expert choreographers, many of whom train the stars for the hip-wiggling that you see on screen!

Like the plaster that peels off many of its buildings, Mumbai has many layers and if these walls could talk, it would take several lifetimes to relive its story. But allow yourself to scratch its surface with us, and we guarantee that it will get under your skin and make you want to come back again and again.

Landsend the Chambers_ GPc 

“Itmenaan Estate was one of the most enjoyable highlights of the trip! We loved being out in the countryside, hiking the hills, observing the rural life, and visiting with the villagers. The view from the lodging was just beautiful, especially the last morning, which dawned clear with a magnificent view of the snow-capped Himalayas. We were the only guests and felt like queens–six staff attending to our needs and serving us delicious food. The Manager, Pujan was terrific. This was our third custom journey and we found them all to be terrific – very well-planned and executed; great itineraries, and fantastic, often very special lodgings.”

Testimonial from Sandee Blechman (www.travelscopeindia.com/testimonials)

The sharp scent of pine needles, crushed beneath your feet as you walk through the mountains, is invigorating. The bird song is like nature’s own orchestra gone wild. A heady kaleidescope of colour, flavor and fragrance pervades your senses. It’s an earthy hospitality which greets you, grounded in warmth.

The Binsar Wildlife Sanctuary, Almora is known for it’s abundance of bird life.

For those who yearn for wide, cooling green spaces as far as the eye can see, interspersed with brilliant yellow mustard fields and the flash of ruby-red rhododendrons, brooks that babble incessantly and a quiet breeze as it rustles the pine needles, night skies studded with stars stretching till the end of the universe — and wait! — stunning 360 degree views of the Himalayas — Uttarakhand (which translates from Hindi to mean The Northern Region) is the state in India for you to call home.

Clouds rising over the Himalayan countryside

And home it really is – for as you walk through this incredible Himalayan countryside, you will literally live in other people’s homes that have been converted into accommodations – just for you.

Itmenaan Estate, Almora

Your guided walks will begin in a district called Almora. We take you through the Binsar National Park and will give you glimpses of life in India far removed from the big urban jungles. Meet with local villagers as they go about their daily chores, collecting firewood and working the fields and looking after their farm animals. Cross through streams and over little log dams, and laugh with the village children as they pose to take pictures with you. They’re as curious about where you’re coming from them as you are about them.

Chat up the children as you walk through their villages

Your guide is well versed with the mountain way of life, is not only your companion but your leader, teacher and best friend. Your guide not only takes you along the village trails, but also gives you first-hand insight into the culture and traditions of this community, and its deep spirituality and integrity.

Your guide, your leader, your companion and friend.

Visit ancient local temples dedicated to patron deities of the region. Learn the names of the birds that serenade you – many of whom are endemic to this biosphere. Understand the thought process that goes behind building the local stone houses with their slate roofs. Visit a cottage industry cooperative and learn how the women are an integral part of keeping the community’s traditions alive and well.

What better place can there be for a place of worship than the lap of nature.

Did you know that Himalayan nettles and rhododendrons have excellent healing properties? (Visit our Wisdom Hoots on Facebook)

You’ll never go hungry for want of tasty and healthy eating options during your time in these mountain villages. The food you eat epitomizes the Farm to Table concept with the produce coming fresh off the farm and onto your plate, prepared by trained chefs.

Walking through the fields where your next meal is coming from!

Satiated with wholesome food, fresh air, and natural sunlight, sleep like a baby in the warm comfort of your village home. (Visit our Unwind/Bedding Down section on Facebook) Wake up early in the morning with a light yoga stretch and start your day at the top of the world.

A soft, warm bed awaits at the end of a hard day of walking.

It has been 6 years since Travel Scope has been promoting the Uthralikkavu Pooram Festival celebrated annually in the small town of Wadakancherry in Central Kerala. It’s a festival that is much smaller in scale compared to the other Poorams but being smaller and practically unknown makes it an intimate experience for our clients. The involvement of the maternal side of my family in organizing this trip adds special privileges to our guests who come from as far as USA, Australia, and Europe. Having missed the festival last year, I was eager to get back this year to be a part of the two-day spectacle.

We spent the first couple of days researching to introduce some new elements for touring options in Cochin and the great backwaters of Kerala, and to check out some hotels. We spent a couple of nights at the 8th Bastion Hotel in Fort Cochin. This is one of the latest additions to the CGH Earth creations in Kerala. It’s an affordable option in Fort Cochin with walking access to the main spots in the city such as the Chinese Nets, St. Francis Church, and the Maidan area. Rooms are comfortable with attached bathroom and shower, a small swimming pool is surrounded by an al-fresco dining area, and an air-conditioned restaurant serves all three meals. Hotel is yet to get a bar license, so at the moment there’s no alcohol service but this should be in place soon. Rooms are spread out on three floors from Ground to 3rd, with maximum rooms on 1st, 2nd and 3rd floors with diverse views. I would highly recommend this property for guests looking for an affordable option in Fort Cochin.

CGH has also restored and renovated two Bungalows very close to the 8th Bastion Hotel. Each of the bungalows is an independent unit with 3 bedrooms, living dining area, and a separate swimming pool. Each bungalow has a dedicated team looking after housekeeping, f&b, and general upkeep. Meals are cooked and served in the bungalow itself. Guests also have the option of cooking themselves. Ideal for families or small group of friends.

Most clients visiting Kerala to experience the backwaters do a routine cruise from Alleppey to Kumarakom or v/v. To say the least, this has resulted in overcrowding at the Alleppey boat jetty and the experience is further diluted when you see countless boats navigating on the same route. There is no real experience of cruising through the narrow canals to experience real life as most of the time the houseboat is navigating the large Vembanad Lake.

Therefore one of our missions was to cruise the backwaters to explore a new route for our guests and we did find a beautiful route where we saw all of three houseboats and the experience was real and authentic. We started the cruise from Pallaturuthy boat jetty and went all the way towards Thotapally and back. One important point to note here is that for this cruise our clients have to report to Pallaturuthy boat jetty by 11 AM so that the cruise can be completed in time and guests return back to Pallaturuthy boat jetty by 4.30 to 5 PM, and then drive back to the hotel. This cruise cannot start or end from a hotel in Kumarakom. Guests will have to drive to Pallaturuthy boat jetty from either Cochin or Kumarakom and again drive back from Pallaturuthy to Kumarakom or Cochin depending on the itinerary. The drive usually takes about 1 hour and 30 minutes one way, but it is definitely worth the experience that you get on the cruise.

For guests opting for an overnight on board, the houseboat will anchor at Thottapally and then drop them back at Pallaturuthy the next morning.

The route is very scenic and one can witness life on the backwaters. Stops include a short walk to see the Karumadi Kuttan Statue – a half cut statue of Buddha which is installed into a small chorten like structure. Something very unique to see in Kerala. Guests also visit a small Krishna temple where the flagpole of the main shrine is said to be shifting leftwards. The locals believe that it will stop in front of another small shrine, which is towards the left of the main shrine and that is the day a new golden flagpole will emerge in front of the main shrine.

For guests opting for an overnight we can organize a auto-rickshaw ride to visit the Krishna Temple at Ambalapuzha, known for its rice pudding as offering to Lord Krishna every day. The temple is located only 2.5 kms from this spot and we will provide auto-rickshaws for a road access. Travel Scope also can also organize exclusive cultural performances of Kathakali or Ottanthullal (stand-up comedy) on an overnight cruise.

I highly recommend this (the Pallaturuthy / Thottapally) route for all our clients seeking an authentic backwater experience.

Our next stop was Wadakancherry. We spent the next couple of days with our guests from USA and Australia who had specially come to witness the Uthralikkavu Pooram Festival at Wadakancherry. The eve of the festival saw the build up to the hectic activities that were to follow the next two days. The three villages of Wadakancherry, Kumaranallur, and Engakkad compete with each other in parading the best of elephants and displaying the noisiest of fireworks, and all this while drummers and trumpeters built the tempo while the crowds joined in to encourage them. And this time we had a unique guest who was conducting the philharmonic orchestra at Wadakancherry. If you don’t believe me, please see it for yourself on the video linked below. The uncles are always thankful to us for bringing people from across the world to witness a festival that’s unique to the Kerala culture.

January to April is the season for some of the most authentic festivals in Kerala. We have identified the following festivals that can be scheduled on a client’s itinerary for 2014 – 15. Pulikali (9th Sep 2014), Thripppnithura Poorathrayesha Festival (21 – 26 Nov 2014), Waddakancherry, Utralikkavu Pooram(24 Feb 2015), Arattupuzha Pooram (01 Apr 2015), Thrissur Pooram – Biggest of all Poorams (29 Apr 2015)