Tag Archives: #India

Cruising the Sunderbans – a travelogue by Mohan

November 15, 2017 Mohan Narayanaswamy

Common ki Pied – dakho ?!!

A travelogue on the Sunderbans by Mohan

Common ki Pied – dakho ?!! asked our boatman Manoj to our Naturalist Samar when he spotted a Kingfisher as we cruised the waterways of Sunderbans. Queried with authority, it surprised me that the boatman should know the bird and the species. What blew my mind was the ability of both Manoj and Samar to spot the smallest of birds from the distance of our boat.

Sunderbans is home to 6 species of Kingfishers or Machranga (as called in Bengali). And I call them the “Super Six of Sunderbans”. We were lucky to spot all 6 but could photograph only 5 including the brown-winged Kingfisher, which is endemic to the Sunderbans.

Our first glimpse of wildlife on the cruise was the Black-Capped Kingfisher. A beautiful bird with a black head, white neck, orange beak, and a beautiful Royal blue body. It looked stunning sitting on the stump of a tree in the background of the brown muddy banks of Sunderbans. It reminded me in some ways of the colours one sees in the barren desert landscape of Rajasthan.

We all know Sunderbans as the World’s largest mangrove forest, certified by Unesco as a Natural Heritage site. It’s one of the most unique landscapes of this world. This is also a habitat for the Royal Bengal Tigers that roam around these forests and swim across its channels, formed by over 400 rivers that criss-cross to form the world’s largest Delta.

As we continued our cruise, we spot two Rhesus macaques walking along the mud slush. This sight is so different when compared with spotting them in the thick and green foliage of a jungle. While we are admiring the strides made by the Macaques through the slush, suddenly our naturalist Samar points us towards a Monitor lizard. It’s hard to spot it at first and takes a while before we trace its form and location. Our cameras immediately swing into action. As we cruise we go past a watchtower, wondering we haven’t seen any DEER, when suddenly our navigator Manoj calls out, DEER! We come across this small herd of three spotted Deers, grazing along the shores.

While cruising back to our lodge, we spot an Osprey sitting on the branch of a tree with the setting sun in the background. We then come across our Kingfisher No.2, the Pied Kingfisher. A totally different colour combination of just black and white stripes and spots.

Our first day in the Sunderbans ended witnessing the setting sun and rising full moon. The first full moon after the 10th day of Durga Puja in Bengal is celebrated as LAKKHI PUJA or Lakshmi Puja, an auspicious day on which the people of Bengal pray to Lakshmi, the goddess of wealth and prosperity. And what we witnessed was a stunning sunset on one side and a rising full moon reflecting bright light on the villages along the riverbanks. It was a spectacular way to end a long day of travel. Back at the camp, we watched the documentary “Swamp Tigers” the first-ever documentary made on the Tigers of Sunderbans shot entirely in Bangladesh side of the swamp forests. A must watch for anyone who is planning a visit to this place.

As with most Indian forests, Sunderbans is also connected with many myths. One such story is of the mythical jungle goddess Bonobibi who continues to be worshipped by both the Hindu and Muslim communities in the Sunderbans. Bonobibi is considered by the locals as their protector and saviour from attacks by predators like the Tiger. The lives and livelihoods of people of Sunderbans are dependent on resources from the forests such as honey, crab and fish. As they set out every day into the forests to tap these resources, they pray to Goddess Bonobibi to protect them, for the narrow creeks and the forests of Sunderbans can be extremely dangerous with the presence of the hungry tigers. Amitav Ghosh’s “HUNGRY TIDE” gives a magical perspective of this region and a must read.

The next couple of days were dedicated to cruising on the rivers and narrow creeks of Sunderbans forests. Our explorations lasted almost 12 hours each day with a 5 AM start ending back at the lodge at 5 PM. Daytime meals were on board. Breakfast consisted of sandwiches, poha (an Indian dish made out of flattened rice), cucumber and tomato sandwiches, bread, jam, butter, cereals, omelette and fruits while lunch consisted of local specialities such as vegetables, lentils, rice, chapatti, salad and a sweet. The crew was kind and efficient and kept a constant supply of tea and biscuits on request.

The early start and long days on a cruise were rewarding as we saw a variety of wildlife. As we would get into a quiet phase on the cruise, some extraordinary sighting would wake us up. Like a swimming estuarine crocodile or a bird of prey or the pug marks of a Tiger that just swam across a creek and disappeared into the jungle.

The best time to see wildlife here is at low tide when the water levels start receding and one starts observing animal movement along the shore. There are some places which are good for birding during high-tide as birds perch themselves higher up on trees.

As our explorations continued, our Naturalist Samar despite poor mobile connectivity got a call on his cell phone from another naturalist. Two Tigers had been spotted on the edge of a creek, ready to swim across. But looking at a boat passing by, they decided to stay away and walked back into the Jungle. Unlike other forests where alarm calls from animals such as Deer, langurs and macaques signal the presence of a predator, in Sunderbans, it’s very hard to figure out a Tiger’s presence as the prey base is low. There are practically no alarm calls unless a deer or a monkey is present in the same spot as a Tiger, which is not so common. Therefore reports like this are very critical for naturalists. If they get an indication of a sighting, they tend to spend more time in these areas to wait and WATCH. After waiting for some time, we decided to move on much to the disappointment of our Naturalist Samar.

Midway through our cruise at the Netidhopani watchtower, we met up with another guest from our lodge who was lucky to have spotted these two tigers. Sunderbans is the 3rd most difficult place to spot a Tiger after Siberia and Sumatra. Back at the lodge, the information board read “Last Tiger Spotted by a guest 6.10.2017”.

We kept moving and were rewarded with sighting 3 more species of Kingfisher. The last one was the Brown Winged Kingfisher which is endemic to Sunderbans. That also brought the end of a long but satisfying day of cruising and wildlife sightings.

The second day of our visit in Sunderbans was affected by heavy rains for most parts of the day. But that did not deter us from going out on the cruise. We ventured out fully equipped with food and water. Our time was well spent with interesting discussions and storytelling sessions by our friend and special guest Jaideep Gupta, who has been a travel companion of many years.

Originally from Bengal and settled in Delhi, Jaideep is an avid traveller who is well read and well informed. He kept pouring out stories of local folklore and legend. His references to the comic characters of Tuttu-Buttu and their adventures into the jungles and encounter with Machranga the Kingfisher made it a very interesting experience. Folklore and legend always add an interesting dimension to any place. One such tale connected to Sunderbans forests that Jaideep recounted is the Story of Behula who brought back her husband Lakhinder from the jaws of death after praying to the snake Goddess Manasa.

As we entered another phase of quietude on the cruise, we heard the naturalist call out Dakho, ‘Dolphins’. It was the perfect place and moment to see the Irrawaddy Dolphins. Our crew kept calling out to us, as the dolphins popped in and out of the water. This game went on for good half hour to 45 minutes with our heads turning left and right, as we attempted to capture those wonderful scenes on our Cameras.

We saw a few more birds of prey, a pair of Brahmini kites, more deer. A monitor lizard which didn’t feel like being photographed moved swiftly back into the forest as we tried to get closer for a shot. The last sighting of the day was another swimming estuarine crocodile, which gave me ample opportunity to capture an amazing video.

Despite rains playing spoilsport, we had another great day exploring the waterways. A fascinating part of the experience is interaction with the locals. Talking to them, helped us understand their challenging lives in these harsh conditions. We spoke to a family, who had just finished collecting crabs on a narrow creek. The one thing they all fear is “the Tiger”, yet they venture into these treacherous terrains and risk their lives.

Our day ended at the lodge watching a play on the legend of Bonobibi enacted by the hotel staff and artists from the neighbouring village.

As we prepared to leave the next morning, a Baul singer brought calm against the sounds of the lashing rain with his soulful singing.

Sunderbans is a once-in-a-lifetime experience for all nature lovers. The highlight of a visit to Sunderbans is its habitat, the wildlife sightings. Interaction with locals, learning about their lives and livelihoods, about the conflicts between man and animal, folklore and legend, social issues and community development brings insight and answers a lot of intriguing questions for the inquisitive traveller.

Accommodation options in Sunderbans are limited to three-star levels. Food served is mostly Indian. Staff, at the hotel, is mostly local from the villages around the property. Communication skills and service levels do not conform to destinations that experience a large inflow of travellers. I strongly recommend that every trip is led by an English speaking escort from Kolkata or Delhi to carefully monitor every detail and manage the expectations of a guest.

In conclusion, I would add that Sunderbans does tick off everything that we are committed to offering under W.A.T.C.H.

Mohan

48 Hours in Jaipur

January 15, 2017 Devayani Khare

There’s so much to see, do and experience across cities in India – yet, some cities with a well-known landmark or more, are often visited for just a day or two. Is it still possible to squeeze in all the interesting sights and sounds of a city? At Travel Scope, we think so…and we’re starting a new feature on how to make the most of your few hours in cities across India. We’ve already covered 48 hours in Agra in a previous blog feature, now here’s how to dash across Jaipur without missing out its highlights!

DAY 1

Start your day with a climb skirting the ridges that define the limits of the city of Jaipur. These ridges, with their historic fortifications, offer panoramic views of the ‘pink city’ buildings and the patchwork of fields that surround it. Listen to our guide narrate the Story of Jaipur from the nexus of Raja Amer’s rule to the present-day capital of Rajasthan, and learn of the geo-strategic significance of this city through history.

Continue on towards the Amer Fort, one of the 3 forts that overlook Jaipur, and the most magnificent – with its artistic Hindu influences and its pretty Maota lake. Interestingly, Amer was a small place established by the Meenas tribe of Rajasthan, before Raja Mansingh decided to relocate his capital and rebuilt the fort upon the remnants of an older structure. Then tuck into a hearty picnic breakfast, and you imagine the city below changing over time.

For those who’d prefer a less active start to the morning, drive off in our Welcome Ambassador – a buxom, regal car that was once the preferred mode of transport for political bigwigs. While today, the Ambassador is only seen as a black-and-yellow cab in Kolkata, our beautiful, eclectically restored car is in a league of its own. Experience the luxury and comfort of this old-school automobile, as you are whisked off into the countryside for a scrumptious picnic breakfast – with champagne, for that little touch of decadent luxury! We can’t think of a more unusual start to the day.

After a quick stop at your hotel, for refreshing and re-gearing yourself, head off to the Anokhi Museum. Located in a magnificently restored haveli (the local word for ‘mansion’), the Anokhi Museum of hand printing displays a selection of block-printed textiles alongside images, tools and related objects, all chosen to provide an in-depth look into the complexity of this ancient tradition. The technique of printing from wooden blocks onto paper and textile, originated in China and spread across Asia. It may have inspired the first engraved woodcuts that lead to the printing press. This technique is still widely used in India, mostly on textiles. If you’d like, you can follow this through with a block-printing workshop, where you can learn the art and skill involved in this textile craft. What’s more you get to take home a handcrafted, hand-printed souvenir and some colourful memories!

The Anokhi Museum also has an interesting cafe, and you can opt to have lunch here or at any of Jaipur’s restaurants! Head back to your hotel room for a little snooze, or dive right into our afternoon’s line-up of activities.

Late afternoon, set off on the Old City Walk with our local guide to help you navigate across a city where the history still echoes across time, and where tradition marries modernity. Visit the City Palace, with its royal collections of miniature paintings, armour, royal garments, textiles, and artefacts. Continue on to the ornate Hawa Mahal, the Palace of the Winds, Jaipur’s most distinctive landmark, and listen to how its structure allowed women of the royal household to witness the rhythms and festivities of the city outside.

No travel experience is complete without shopping, and the colourful bazaars of India have something to offer even the most impatient of men! With specialties like local handicrafts, textiles, gems, silver jewelry, blue pottery and carpets, Jaipur’s streets can rival Ali Baba’s cave of wonders. Travel Scope can help you navigate your way across street hawkers and chic boutiques, with a personal shopping expert in search of those perfect souvenirs.

Unwind with a signature ‘Pink Martini’ at the Rajasthan Polo Club in Jaipur – a heady concoction of Tanqueray rose syrup, martini Rosso and creme de fraiche, garnished with rose petals! The Pink Martini is considered to be a tribute to the ‘pink city’, and has long been an insider’s secret at the club. For the equestrian enthusiasts, we can also arrange for the company of a horseman and polo-player like handsome Mr Ransher, with whom you can discuss Jaipur’s polo culture and its historic bond with horses! The Rajasthan Polo Club is located in the Rambagh Palace, and their traditional Indian restaurant, the Suvarna Mahal and the Italian restaurant Steam (built in train-like compartments) offer you great dining options.

Head back to your hotel after dinner, and get a good rest before another day of city exploration.

DAY 2

Start your morning on a spiritual quest learning the ancient techniques of yoga. What better stage can we offer than an old, once-abandoned and since-restored haveli built in 1872! Naila Bagh Palace still retains much of its former characteristics, from the time it served as a residence for a former prime minister of Jaipur and has hosted many international dignitaries. Yoga comprises of techniques that lead to harmony between the inner self and the external environment, between thought and action, between the individual and the world, while meditation encourages self-reflection and self-realisation. Beyond the practice, learn how these traditions form an integral part of everyday spirituality and wellbeing.

For those who love to conquer the skies, start your morning in a Hot Air Balloon. Soar over the countryside with its patchwork of green fields and scrub forests, the blue-greens and browns of the water bodies, dry land and rocky outcrops. Watch picturesque villages begin their daily routines or the ‘Pink City’s bustling rhythm as you float over bazaars, forts and palaces and see excited children waving frantically at you. There’s nothing more magical than experiencing the countryside with a bird’s eye view as you fly, up, up and away!

After a quick breakfast and shower, set off on your sightseeing trail. Begin with the City Palace complex, the seat of the Maharajah of Jaipur, which consists of an impressive array of courtyards, gardens and buildings. Afterwards, head to the Jantar Mantar observatory, built in the early 1700s by Sawai Jai Singh II, Jaipur’s ruler and a keen astronomer will showcase Central Asia’s rich legacy of astronomy. Its sixteen massive instruments are works of art in themselves and some can forecast the weather even today!

Late morning, head off to the Samode Haveli or the Dera Mandawa for unusual culinary experiences; the former offers a cook-off with a chef and the latter, involves a hands-on cooking session!

Cook-off with Chef at Samode Haveli: Samode Haveli’s signature offering is a cook-off with a chef showcasing almost forgotten recipes from an old hand-written manuscript. Here’s to a truly inspirational, mouth-watering palatial journey!

Rajasthani cuisine at Dera Mandawa: a hands-on cooking experience: At Dera Mandawa, one can indulge in a hands-on Rajasthani cooking experience. Start with a trip to the nearby market for ingredients, learn the recipes for regional specialties, followed by a scrumptious, regal lunch with the family. The passionate couple, who have converted this property into a heritage hotel, will be your co-chefs and hosts through the session – and the conversation is as interesting as their cuisine!

This afternoon too, you can choose between a quick snooze or a headlong plunge into the evening’s activities.

Did you know that apart from the spices and the tea, India was also at the heart of a roaring trade in precious stones, like diamonds and pearls among others. The Mughal Empire was lured by the promise of these precious stones, and they worked huge quantities of stones into their monuments, much to the delight of future generations of plunderers and thieves. Jaipur’s alleyways are home to some of the craftsmen and traders, who are well-versed with the lore of gems. To know more about the craft and the mythology of stones, Travel Scope can arrange for a meeting with a gemologist, which can offer an unusual insight into one of the many communities of Jaipur. (Psst..to see what other vanities gemstones serve, our Old City Heritage Walk trails past artisans who set jewels into the hilts of inimical, handcrafted swords – once worn by kings and princes!)

For those interested in gleaning an insight into the social fabric of India, perhaps our Women through the Ages experience would be of interest. As with most patriarchal histories, the unheard voice is that of the females. During this interactive session with an academic and writer, who has written and taught extensively in the field of Gender Studies, you can debate at length about issues from female feticide to sex ratios, from infant marriages to widowhood, from political participation to social roles of the fairer sex. The Women through the Ages is a refreshing, intellectual experience you wouldn’t be likely to encounter in any travel guide.

End the evening with sundowners at Nahargarh – another fort overlooking Jaipur, accessed by a winding road through dry, deciduous hillsides. Watch the sunset atop fort turrets over the rim of your cocktail glass or an elegant flute of wine, and the twinkling of the city lights welcoming the night. Light snacks or dinner can also be served from this vantage point.

For luxury travellers, our Welcome Ambassador can take you in regal style and comfort to the City Palace. You can visit the private quarters of this regal residence, before being ushered to the Indo-Saracenic inspired, courtyard restaurant, Baradari. The inlaid marble work, the fluted water cascade, the brass and mirror decor provides the perfect backdrop for a fine-dining experience and a conversation starter for the history and architecture buffs.

A specially created menu offers you the best of traditional and global cuisine, and the restaurant’s signature drinks are the talk of the town. Surely, the perfect end to your 48-hour tour in the ‘Pink City’!

Book Reviews: Rivers of India

July 19, 2016 Devayani Khare

There are books that inspire travel, and travels that inspire books. This blog will be both – some books that inspired travel across India, and some adventures that inspired novels, which perhaps in turn will inspire you to chart your own journeys across India. Keeping with this month’s theme, these books also touch upon the rivers of India, as a backdrop or an inspiration – and these tales are woven around rivers.

There Are Other Rivers: On Foot Across India
Alastair Humphreys
Genre: Non-Fiction / Travel

If you love travel novels based on first-person journeys on the open road, Alastair Humphreys’ There are Other Rivers could be a great addition to your library. The author traipsed alone across India from the east coast to the west along the course of a sacred river. Along the way, he slept beneath open skies or under the roofs of hospitable strangers, and this novel charts his walk across the country, on a shoestring budget. What he lacked in luxuries, he made up for in sheer experiences and adventures – and his journey could inspire other adventure travelers to venture on the road less taken.

The Angry River
Ruskin Bond
Genre: Children’s Fiction, Short Stories

Ruskin Bond’s narrative is distinct in its lyrical quality, and his stories usually revolve around simple, everyday lives and incidents. The Angry River, at first glance seems like the story of a little village girl affected by a river flooding. Yet the character of the girl develops, as she deals with maturity and enters adulthood, so the book touches a chord in a hauntingly, evocative manner. While the book forms part of school curricula across India, it can appeal to audiences of all ages – keen on gaining an insight into the everyday trials and tribulations of the rural folk across India.

The Hungry Tide
Amitav Ghosh
Genre: Fiction

Set in the 70s against a backdrop of the Sunderbans, in West Bengal, Amitav Ghosh’s the Hungry Tide skillfully weaves together the narrative of three characters, a marine biologist, a fisherman and a translator. The book offers rich details of Sunderbans’ natural history and the vagaries of the mangrove ecosystem, as also the political problems arising from its location on the border of India and Bangladesh. The novel is a riveting inspiration for those visiting the Sunderbans and is full of the emotional drama between the characters, making for an ideal travel read.

Land of the Seven Rivers: A Brief History of India’s Geography
Sanjeev Sanyal
Genre: Non-Fiction – History / Geography

India’s giddying history from its earliest civilization to its present-day politics, is best understood in the context of its geography. Sanjeev Sanyal’s book tries to answer some of the many curious questions that define India in his book, Land of the Seven Rivers: A Brief History of India’s Geography. From how the country was named Bharat, to why the highest peak was named Mt Everest, from how the Dutch sailed to the subcontinent for trade in the early days to how the British colony laid down the railway lines – the book offers an interesting, witty look at India’s history and geography. The information gleaned from mythological lore anthropological theories, geological occurrences, historical documents and the author’s travels, serves as a delightful introduction to this rich, diverse country!

A River Runs Again: India’s Natural World in Crisis, from the Barren Cliffs of Rajasthan to the Farmlands of Karnataka
Meera Subramanian
Genre: Non-Fiction / Ecology

Exploring 5 themes through the 5 sacred elements – A River Runs Again is an iconic take on India’s environmental crisis. A narrative of India’s ecosystem on the brink between urbanization, development and overpopulation, it touchingly details the tragedy and offers a small hope against the country’s decline into environmental chaos. Written informatively, yet with a compassion and deep understanding of the short-sighted environmental strategies and their impact on real lives – a definitive work for readers interested in a stark, realistic picture of India’s ecological context.

Reflections on the Jaipur Literature Festival 2016

February 12, 2016 Devayani Khare

Across India, January is increasingly being associated with literature festivals. Delhi, Hyderabad, Mumbai and the state of Gujarat, all celebrate indigenous and international literature – each with their inimical selection of authors and other personalities gracing the stage. In Jaipur, the literature festival started off as a small effort and today, is being touted as ‘the world’s largest free literature event’ – and its history and acclaim made us curious enough to attend it this year.

On the foggy morning drive to the pink city – we scanned the festival schedules to decide upon the sessions we’d like to attend, an important stage as with parallel events, one often misses out on more than one would like to. We reached our hotel – the heritage property Narain Niwas Palace, had a quick lunch and headed down the road to Diggi Palace – the potpourri of literary hubbub.

The throngs of literature-seekers at the Jaipur Literature Festival 2016

The long queues moved faster than we thought, giving credence to the news of increased attendance per year, as also venue upgrades to accommodate the literature-seekers. The venue was split up into several sections of tents, with raised stages and audience areas – and we weaved our way through the chaotic crowds to reach our selected sessions.

Stephen Fry talking about the author Oscar Wilde

Our first session was by Stephen Fry – the British actor, who spoke about his exposure to the author Oscar Wilde. As often with TV personalities, a real-life encounter creates very different impressions – and Stephen Fry’s sensitive, personal, heart-warming account of Oscar Wilde’s genius, arrogance and personal problems, brought out a different side to the author and actor alike.

JaipurLitFest2016_18 — Author Amish of the Meluha trilogy and the Ramchandra series in an interactive session with the audience

The sessions we attended were of a wide variety: a panel on what makes South Asians laugh; a candid, interactive session with Amish – the author of the Meluha series; a political debate on the India Story; a discussion on India’s visual culture; a look at the insensitivity of media; readings by authors of select travel excerpts; a book-promotion by a Bollywood-cum-political figure, and a talk on the legacy of the British Empire, among others.

JaipurLitFest2016_24 — A discussion on the visual culture of India with Steve McCurry, Vidya Dehejia, William Dalrymple, Aman Nath and Alka Pande

JaipurLitFest2016_26 — Deciphering ancient knowledge systems with economist Bibek Debroy, scholar Sitanshu Yashachandra, oncologist Aarathi Prasad and mediator Sudha Gopalakrishnan

Over the next two days, we tried to attend as many sessions as possible, bumped into known faces, were overwhelmed by the crowds, learned tricks of how to bag the limited chairs at venues and how to dodge the crowds and chaos, with many impromptu photo-stops along the way! Every evening ended on a high note – discussing the highlights of the day, sharing juicy tidbits from the speakers, with a fair consumption of brews, cocktails and food!

JaipurLitFest2016_33 — Travel excerpts by authors (From right to left) Anthony Sattin, Salil Tripathi, Christina Lamb, William Dalrymple, Alex Shoumatoff, Gerard Russell & Colin Thubron.

Beyond offering a platform for authors and readers to connect – the literature festival set the stage for cross-cultural interactions. With diverse panels of speakers and an incredible range of topics, each year, it attracts a culture-hungry audience from across the world. This festival, has today, made Jaipur “the literature capital of the country” – and only promises to get better as time goes by.

JaipurLitFest2016_28 — Shashi Tharoor, former diplomat, writer, public intellectual and political figure, talking about the British Empire

We couldn’t help but think that the Rajput Maharaja Jai Singh II’s grand vision to set up public institutions and modernize Jaipur, which was responsible for the city being declared the capital of Rajasthan, has assumed a new avatar. Established with lofty scientific and cultural ideals, Jaipur continues to hold a torch to literature and learning. A movement like the literature festival is creating an enlightened, well-exposed, culturally sensitive youth while providing a great platform to disseminate the state’s rich heritage, history and culture – and we hope the literature festivals across the country, create the same ripples of change!

A packed audience for the Shatrugan Sinha – Shashi Tharoor session

In the rich, cultural tapestry of India – with its colorful festivals and celebrations, the literature festivals would be a great way to understand how the traditions of Indian literature are being carried forward by the next generation. It is a chance to witness a modern-day India in the making – and we would highly recommend attending one of many literary events, from books fairs to literature festivals, from reading clubs to storytelling sessions that are defining the urban culture of the country today!