Tag Archives: #Rajasthan

The Leopards & Shepherds of Bera

April 24, 2018 Mohan Narayanaswamy

This story is long overdue but the scenes are still fresh in my mind. All I need is to press the memory button and it all unfolds in front of me. I had been hearing about leopards of Bera for a long time. But until you reach there you have no idea of the experience. I have known Shatrunjay Pratap for many years now.

He is a connoisseur of Indian wine. Having completed a special degree in wine culture form UC Davis in California, he returned to India and worked in Sula vineyards in Nashik. But I suppose his heart was beating to be out there in the wild. He decided to move to Bera in Western Rajasthan, where he has been camping for several years now.

In these years, he has scanned every conceivable hill in the area and has got some of the most amazing photographs and footage of the leopards and shepherds of the area. He has been a crusader for these leopards and the shepherds for all these years, fighting legal battles against illegal mining contracts to save and sustain the habitat for these beautiful beasts.

Leopards Bera — One of Bera’s majestic residents staking its territory. Image credits: Shatrunjay Pratap, Bera Safari Lodge.

His lodge BERA SAFARI Lodge is an ideal location to stay and explore the hills of BERA to look for leopards and other wildlife in the bush such as jackals, hyenas, bears and a variety of birds. You could also chance upon some of the most venomous snakes such as the saw-scaled viper.

07_Bera Safari Lodge Room 01 — The spacious well-appointed rooms at Bera with a view over scrub-and-thorn wilderness. Image credits: Bera Safari Lodge.

The Bera Safari Lodge is a small and simple 4 room property with all comforts that one would need on a wildlife exploration. The dining room is an intimate space where one gathers for every meal like a family. Fresh home cooked meals are served by the staff, under the supervision of Katyayani, Shatrunjay’s better half.

The highlight of the stay is setting out on safaris with Shatrunjay, as he navigates us through the bush in Bera. His team of spotters are connected by walkie-talkies and the moment a leopard is spotted, it is communicated to Shatrunjay. Sightings are very different compared to sightings on Tiger Safaris. The leopards are located on the hills hence using binoculars are the best way of spotting them. One needs to be a skilled spotter to locate them in the well-camouflaged habitat.

DSCN1247 — An Indian Eagle Owl caught in our headlights

I am narrating a highlight of my own visit to Bera. We were a party of 6. So we split ourselves into two jeeps and different directions. I was with Shatrunjay and my photographer friend Sid. We had to do a bit of a trek carrying all our heavy equipment to reach a particular spot to set ourselves up. It was dark when we left the lodge. Our first sighting was an Indian Eagle Owl standing right in the middle of the road. As the sun started coming up slowly the surroundings became clear and I could see a dry river bed in front of me and a hill across.

Shatrunjay told me that this hill is home to a leopard and he usually comes back in the morning after his night outs. I was wondering if the leopard was really going to come. I then popped the obvious question to Shatrunjay. And as soon as I said that Shatrunjay’s spotter pointed us towards the hill. Woh Niklio Hukam. That means, there he comes to Sir.

I tried spotting the leopard using my small 60 x Nikon and got some shots. But the amazing scene that happened was captured by both Shatrunjay and Sid’s powerful lenses. An eagle owl flew up past the leopard and gave it a shot on the head before flying away. That scene was worth the wait. The leopard, obviously irritated and unhappy at this daring act of the owl, slowly walked towards his cave, but not before stopping to give us a good stare, as though saying, I still rule this place.

Bera-2 — Bera’s story revolves around the leopard and the Rabari tribesmen – click on the image to watch our YouTube video

He was a grown-up male with a sagging belly. Obviously, he had a great feast on his night out and looking forward to a good siesta back in his cave.
We spent the rest of the day at the lodge and went out at sunset to another amazing landscape. These hills were homes to leopards and bears, though we didn’t have any sighting. But the spot itself was magical and the sunset was incredibly beautiful.

DSCN1305 — The Rabari shepherd community has long lived alongside the leopards – and their stoic philosophy has helped them cope with livestock losses due to predation every year

The next morning we visited some of the Rebari settlements. A visit to a villages in Bera is an interesting insight into the lives of the Rebaris. The Rebaris a shepherd community, make a living from their livestock which includes cows, goats, sheep. There is an unwritten understanding between the leopards and the shepherds. The days belongs to the shepherds and the nights belong to the leopards.

Despite the dangers of attack by leopards on their livestock, the shepherds here in Bera have lived in harmony for years and avoided conflict. Shatrunjay’s work in conserving the habitat and educating the shepherds has further helped in sustaining the lives of both.

Bera is slowly becoming popular on the tourism circuit. It’s a great experience for nature lovers. One must visit before it gets overcrowded like other wildlife destinations.

48 Hours in Jaipur

January 15, 2017 Devayani Khare

There’s so much to see, do and experience across cities in India – yet, some cities with a well-known landmark or more, are often visited for just a day or two. Is it still possible to squeeze in all the interesting sights and sounds of a city? At Travel Scope, we think so…and we’re starting a new feature on how to make the most of your few hours in cities across India. We’ve already covered 48 hours in Agra in a previous blog feature, now here’s how to dash across Jaipur without missing out its highlights!

DAY 1

Start your day with a climb skirting the ridges that define the limits of the city of Jaipur. These ridges, with their historic fortifications, offer panoramic views of the ‘pink city’ buildings and the patchwork of fields that surround it. Listen to our guide narrate the Story of Jaipur from the nexus of Raja Amer’s rule to the present-day capital of Rajasthan, and learn of the geo-strategic significance of this city through history.

Continue on towards the Amer Fort, one of the 3 forts that overlook Jaipur, and the most magnificent – with its artistic Hindu influences and its pretty Maota lake. Interestingly, Amer was a small place established by the Meenas tribe of Rajasthan, before Raja Mansingh decided to relocate his capital and rebuilt the fort upon the remnants of an older structure. Then tuck into a hearty picnic breakfast, and you imagine the city below changing over time.

For those who’d prefer a less active start to the morning, drive off in our Welcome Ambassador – a buxom, regal car that was once the preferred mode of transport for political bigwigs. While today, the Ambassador is only seen as a black-and-yellow cab in Kolkata, our beautiful, eclectically restored car is in a league of its own. Experience the luxury and comfort of this old-school automobile, as you are whisked off into the countryside for a scrumptious picnic breakfast – with champagne, for that little touch of decadent luxury! We can’t think of a more unusual start to the day.

After a quick stop at your hotel, for refreshing and re-gearing yourself, head off to the Anokhi Museum. Located in a magnificently restored haveli (the local word for ‘mansion’), the Anokhi Museum of hand printing displays a selection of block-printed textiles alongside images, tools and related objects, all chosen to provide an in-depth look into the complexity of this ancient tradition. The technique of printing from wooden blocks onto paper and textile, originated in China and spread across Asia. It may have inspired the first engraved woodcuts that lead to the printing press. This technique is still widely used in India, mostly on textiles. If you’d like, you can follow this through with a block-printing workshop, where you can learn the art and skill involved in this textile craft. What’s more you get to take home a handcrafted, hand-printed souvenir and some colourful memories!

The Anokhi Museum also has an interesting cafe, and you can opt to have lunch here or at any of Jaipur’s restaurants! Head back to your hotel room for a little snooze, or dive right into our afternoon’s line-up of activities.

Late afternoon, set off on the Old City Walk with our local guide to help you navigate across a city where the history still echoes across time, and where tradition marries modernity. Visit the City Palace, with its royal collections of miniature paintings, armour, royal garments, textiles, and artefacts. Continue on to the ornate Hawa Mahal, the Palace of the Winds, Jaipur’s most distinctive landmark, and listen to how its structure allowed women of the royal household to witness the rhythms and festivities of the city outside.

No travel experience is complete without shopping, and the colourful bazaars of India have something to offer even the most impatient of men! With specialties like local handicrafts, textiles, gems, silver jewelry, blue pottery and carpets, Jaipur’s streets can rival Ali Baba’s cave of wonders. Travel Scope can help you navigate your way across street hawkers and chic boutiques, with a personal shopping expert in search of those perfect souvenirs.

Unwind with a signature ‘Pink Martini’ at the Rajasthan Polo Club in Jaipur – a heady concoction of Tanqueray rose syrup, martini Rosso and creme de fraiche, garnished with rose petals! The Pink Martini is considered to be a tribute to the ‘pink city’, and has long been an insider’s secret at the club. For the equestrian enthusiasts, we can also arrange for the company of a horseman and polo-player like handsome Mr Ransher, with whom you can discuss Jaipur’s polo culture and its historic bond with horses! The Rajasthan Polo Club is located in the Rambagh Palace, and their traditional Indian restaurant, the Suvarna Mahal and the Italian restaurant Steam (built in train-like compartments) offer you great dining options.

Head back to your hotel after dinner, and get a good rest before another day of city exploration.

DAY 2

Start your morning on a spiritual quest learning the ancient techniques of yoga. What better stage can we offer than an old, once-abandoned and since-restored haveli built in 1872! Naila Bagh Palace still retains much of its former characteristics, from the time it served as a residence for a former prime minister of Jaipur and has hosted many international dignitaries. Yoga comprises of techniques that lead to harmony between the inner self and the external environment, between thought and action, between the individual and the world, while meditation encourages self-reflection and self-realisation. Beyond the practice, learn how these traditions form an integral part of everyday spirituality and wellbeing.

For those who love to conquer the skies, start your morning in a Hot Air Balloon. Soar over the countryside with its patchwork of green fields and scrub forests, the blue-greens and browns of the water bodies, dry land and rocky outcrops. Watch picturesque villages begin their daily routines or the ‘Pink City’s bustling rhythm as you float over bazaars, forts and palaces and see excited children waving frantically at you. There’s nothing more magical than experiencing the countryside with a bird’s eye view as you fly, up, up and away!

After a quick breakfast and shower, set off on your sightseeing trail. Begin with the City Palace complex, the seat of the Maharajah of Jaipur, which consists of an impressive array of courtyards, gardens and buildings. Afterwards, head to the Jantar Mantar observatory, built in the early 1700s by Sawai Jai Singh II, Jaipur’s ruler and a keen astronomer will showcase Central Asia’s rich legacy of astronomy. Its sixteen massive instruments are works of art in themselves and some can forecast the weather even today!

Late morning, head off to the Samode Haveli or the Dera Mandawa for unusual culinary experiences; the former offers a cook-off with a chef and the latter, involves a hands-on cooking session!

Cook-off with Chef at Samode Haveli: Samode Haveli’s signature offering is a cook-off with a chef showcasing almost forgotten recipes from an old hand-written manuscript. Here’s to a truly inspirational, mouth-watering palatial journey!

Rajasthani cuisine at Dera Mandawa: a hands-on cooking experience: At Dera Mandawa, one can indulge in a hands-on Rajasthani cooking experience. Start with a trip to the nearby market for ingredients, learn the recipes for regional specialties, followed by a scrumptious, regal lunch with the family. The passionate couple, who have converted this property into a heritage hotel, will be your co-chefs and hosts through the session – and the conversation is as interesting as their cuisine!

This afternoon too, you can choose between a quick snooze or a headlong plunge into the evening’s activities.

Did you know that apart from the spices and the tea, India was also at the heart of a roaring trade in precious stones, like diamonds and pearls among others. The Mughal Empire was lured by the promise of these precious stones, and they worked huge quantities of stones into their monuments, much to the delight of future generations of plunderers and thieves. Jaipur’s alleyways are home to some of the craftsmen and traders, who are well-versed with the lore of gems. To know more about the craft and the mythology of stones, Travel Scope can arrange for a meeting with a gemologist, which can offer an unusual insight into one of the many communities of Jaipur. (Psst..to see what other vanities gemstones serve, our Old City Heritage Walk trails past artisans who set jewels into the hilts of inimical, handcrafted swords – once worn by kings and princes!)

For those interested in gleaning an insight into the social fabric of India, perhaps our Women through the Ages experience would be of interest. As with most patriarchal histories, the unheard voice is that of the females. During this interactive session with an academic and writer, who has written and taught extensively in the field of Gender Studies, you can debate at length about issues from female feticide to sex ratios, from infant marriages to widowhood, from political participation to social roles of the fairer sex. The Women through the Ages is a refreshing, intellectual experience you wouldn’t be likely to encounter in any travel guide.

End the evening with sundowners at Nahargarh – another fort overlooking Jaipur, accessed by a winding road through dry, deciduous hillsides. Watch the sunset atop fort turrets over the rim of your cocktail glass or an elegant flute of wine, and the twinkling of the city lights welcoming the night. Light snacks or dinner can also be served from this vantage point.

For luxury travellers, our Welcome Ambassador can take you in regal style and comfort to the City Palace. You can visit the private quarters of this regal residence, before being ushered to the Indo-Saracenic inspired, courtyard restaurant, Baradari. The inlaid marble work, the fluted water cascade, the brass and mirror decor provides the perfect backdrop for a fine-dining experience and a conversation starter for the history and architecture buffs.

A specially created menu offers you the best of traditional and global cuisine, and the restaurant’s signature drinks are the talk of the town. Surely, the perfect end to your 48-hour tour in the ‘Pink City’!

Reflections on the Jaipur Literature Festival 2016

February 12, 2016 Devayani Khare

Across India, January is increasingly being associated with literature festivals. Delhi, Hyderabad, Mumbai and the state of Gujarat, all celebrate indigenous and international literature – each with their inimical selection of authors and other personalities gracing the stage. In Jaipur, the literature festival started off as a small effort and today, is being touted as ‘the world’s largest free literature event’ – and its history and acclaim made us curious enough to attend it this year.

On the foggy morning drive to the pink city – we scanned the festival schedules to decide upon the sessions we’d like to attend, an important stage as with parallel events, one often misses out on more than one would like to. We reached our hotel – the heritage property Narain Niwas Palace, had a quick lunch and headed down the road to Diggi Palace – the potpourri of literary hubbub.

The throngs of literature-seekers at the Jaipur Literature Festival 2016

The long queues moved faster than we thought, giving credence to the news of increased attendance per year, as also venue upgrades to accommodate the literature-seekers. The venue was split up into several sections of tents, with raised stages and audience areas – and we weaved our way through the chaotic crowds to reach our selected sessions.

Stephen Fry talking about the author Oscar Wilde

Our first session was by Stephen Fry – the British actor, who spoke about his exposure to the author Oscar Wilde. As often with TV personalities, a real-life encounter creates very different impressions – and Stephen Fry’s sensitive, personal, heart-warming account of Oscar Wilde’s genius, arrogance and personal problems, brought out a different side to the author and actor alike.

JaipurLitFest2016_18 — Author Amish of the Meluha trilogy and the Ramchandra series in an interactive session with the audience

The sessions we attended were of a wide variety: a panel on what makes South Asians laugh; a candid, interactive session with Amish – the author of the Meluha series; a political debate on the India Story; a discussion on India’s visual culture; a look at the insensitivity of media; readings by authors of select travel excerpts; a book-promotion by a Bollywood-cum-political figure, and a talk on the legacy of the British Empire, among others.

JaipurLitFest2016_24 — A discussion on the visual culture of India with Steve McCurry, Vidya Dehejia, William Dalrymple, Aman Nath and Alka Pande

JaipurLitFest2016_26 — Deciphering ancient knowledge systems with economist Bibek Debroy, scholar Sitanshu Yashachandra, oncologist Aarathi Prasad and mediator Sudha Gopalakrishnan

Over the next two days, we tried to attend as many sessions as possible, bumped into known faces, were overwhelmed by the crowds, learned tricks of how to bag the limited chairs at venues and how to dodge the crowds and chaos, with many impromptu photo-stops along the way! Every evening ended on a high note – discussing the highlights of the day, sharing juicy tidbits from the speakers, with a fair consumption of brews, cocktails and food!

JaipurLitFest2016_33 — Travel excerpts by authors (From right to left) Anthony Sattin, Salil Tripathi, Christina Lamb, William Dalrymple, Alex Shoumatoff, Gerard Russell & Colin Thubron.

Beyond offering a platform for authors and readers to connect – the literature festival set the stage for cross-cultural interactions. With diverse panels of speakers and an incredible range of topics, each year, it attracts a culture-hungry audience from across the world. This festival, has today, made Jaipur “the literature capital of the country” – and only promises to get better as time goes by.

JaipurLitFest2016_28 — Shashi Tharoor, former diplomat, writer, public intellectual and political figure, talking about the British Empire

We couldn’t help but think that the Rajput Maharaja Jai Singh II’s grand vision to set up public institutions and modernize Jaipur, which was responsible for the city being declared the capital of Rajasthan, has assumed a new avatar. Established with lofty scientific and cultural ideals, Jaipur continues to hold a torch to literature and learning. A movement like the literature festival is creating an enlightened, well-exposed, culturally sensitive youth while providing a great platform to disseminate the state’s rich heritage, history and culture – and we hope the literature festivals across the country, create the same ripples of change!

A packed audience for the Shatrugan Sinha – Shashi Tharoor session

In the rich, cultural tapestry of India – with its colorful festivals and celebrations, the literature festivals would be a great way to understand how the traditions of Indian literature are being carried forward by the next generation. It is a chance to witness a modern-day India in the making – and we would highly recommend attending one of many literary events, from books fairs to literature festivals, from reading clubs to storytelling sessions that are defining the urban culture of the country today!